NEW FOR 2026. PERMIT-ONLY ASCENTS. THE REVOLUTION IS NOW.
…
We have worked at this for a long time, and finally we can run trips to select areas minus a big chunk of the logistics previously required. This means teams can take care of the majority of logistics and resources themselves, with us only providing the minimum mandatory oversight the authorities require.
Note these are still Feeding the Rat Expeditions trips and still run through us to happen and require our oversight, but what teams don’t need is us leading and physically running things that are now open to independent organization.
The bare basics required for us to provide are;
Permits. These are vetted, outlined and obtained through us, for objectives and teams we have interfaced. They are Feeding the Rat Expeditions permits for teams under our auspice.
Liaison and Translation. All teams have always needed this and this doesn’t change. Teams must have licensed translators and LOs to interface with authorities and locals. Your highschool Mandarin doesn’t cut it.
Oversight. The progress and any changes of expeditions is overseen by us, in real time. Issues for teams we address at the administrative level, so things can progress smoothly on the ground.
…
What’s up to you;
Transport. The LO/Translator meets teams with the permits at the town of departure. How you get there and get out to the mountains is up to you and the costs are yours. Hitchhike if you want.
Supplies. All food, fuel, gear and sourcing is yours to control. Eat where you want, buy what you want and as you need.
Accommodation. Hotels are yours to decide, pay and arrange, from dossing in monasteries to 5 start resorts.
Research. Decide what you want to do and how you want to do it and work out all the details. If it’s possible we will arrange it.
Trip leading. Work to you own strategies and timelines and develop your own style, this is your climbing not ours.
…
These changes have the potential to save teams thousands, and the well organized teams will be able to plan every detail exactly how they want to account for acclimatization and resources. Small teams particularly can operate as units unaffected by outside intrusion, with minimal footprint and demands imposed by larger logistics.
This is the greatest level of freedom ever granted to Himalayan climbing, opening up hundreds of first ascent possibilities to teams under their own steam. We got here through decades of negotiating, testing and pushing the leading edge of what can be done in China, playing the long game and earning trust. But there are still some limitations. As these are early days, this is being rolled out cautiously, earlier bad behaviour by foreign climbers leaving a precedent.
All of the basic statutes and administrative regulations still apply as always, these freedoms apply to the front-end of expeditions only. Feeding the Rat Expeditions still has to take care of all the admin that is done trip by trip, that form the basis for all expeditions operating safely.
Right now the rules are;
Limited to specific areas. Initially we can go permit-only to select parts of the Tibetan Plateau and Xinjiang that are nowhere near contentious borders or so remote they require complex logistics. This still leaves vast areas of unclimbed terrain and ascents into the 7000s. Contact us to know more.
Small and alpine style teams only. Real expeditions only. This is not open to commercial groups running tours or collective groups with multiple objectives.
Liaison and Translation present. Minimum at the start at the trip, to handover the permits, explain details and establish things with local authorities. If required, liaison and translation will be dispatched during or after expeditions.
…
This is a work in process and more areas are expected to open to this sort of trip. Until then the bigger, wilder and more complex expeditions are still fully under our direction, including the North Karakoram, Aksai Chin, Changtang and newly opening parts of Tibet. The smart climber will jump on this, to be part of the new wave of high altitude alpinism, positioning themselves for the ultimate edge when the biggest stuff is independently open.
Contact us to know more.
…
*all administrative processes are done in full compliance with the regulations of the China Mountaineering Association and local authorities. Intentional contravention of these regulations can face consequences including fines, additional costs and the revoking of permits.
…