CHINA FOR CLIMBERS
IN CHINA WE DO ONE THING; CLIMB MOUNTAINS. OUR ENTIRE ENTERPRISE HAPPENS WITHIN THE CLIMBING AND MOUNTAIN COMMUNITIES, AND OUR TRIPS ARE SPENT 90% IN THE MOUNTAINS WITH THE 10% IN CITIES JUST TO BUY SUPPLIES AND MEET WITH OTHER CLIMBERS. WE KNOW THERE’S A MILLION OTHER ASPECTS TO CHINA TO PURSUE, BUT WE JUST DO THIS AND IT’S MORE THAN ENOUGH.
IN CHINA ‘MOUNTAINS’ IS A VAST THING, ENCOMPASSING AS MUCH AS THE REST OF ASIAS MOUNTAINS PUT TOGETHER. IT GEOGRAPHCALLY COVERS HALF A DOZEN PROVINCES, DOZENS OF ETHNIC GROUPS AND THOUSANDS OF OBJECTIVES, AND TAKES US TO THE BORDERS OF NINE OTHER COUNTRIES. THIS IS NO SMALL OR NICHE THING, AND OUR LITTLE COMPANY COVERS AN AREA ROUGHLY THE SIZE OF EUROPE, MAKING FOR A HUGE PLAYGROUND WITHIN WHICH TO CLIMB.
*NONE OF WHAT FOLLOWS APPLIES TO THE REGION AROUND EVEREST, WHICH IS A SPECIAL CASE CONTROLLED BY ITS OWN AUTHORITY, CATERED TO TOTALLY BY CERTAIN PROVIDERS. WHAT IS HERE IS FOR INDEPENDANT CLIMBERS, GOING TO PEAKS WITH UNIQUE OBJECTIVES.
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FOR THE CLIMBER, THE CHINA YOU SEE IN THE WESTERN NEWS IS FAR AWAY, AND JUST AS THE ISSUES OF FUNDAMENTALISM IN PAKISTAN AND ETHNIC UNREST IN NEPAL ARE FAR FROM THE CLIMBING, NONE OF IT AFFECTS AN EXPEDITION ANY MORE THAN SCHOOL SHOOTINGS AFFECT A TRIP TO THE US OR DRUG CARTELS AFFECT TRIPS TO PERU. WE ARE NO FANS OF TOTALITARIANISM AND COLD WAR FACE OFFS, SO WE STICK TO WHAT WE KNOW WHICH IS EXPEDITIONS TO OBSCURE PLACES.
INSTEAD, CHINA HAS ACCESS TO HIGH ALTITUDE AREAS UNPARALLELED ANYWHERE ELSE, TO THE DEGREE WE NEED TO UPDATE OUR LOGISTICS EACH YEAR AS THINGS LIKE ROADS IMPROVE AND AIRPORTS OPEN. WE NOW ACTUALLY HAVE TO INTENTIONALLY SLOW THINGS DOWN BECAUSE THE RISE TO 4000m HAPPENS TO QUICK, BUT CAN ALSO HARNESS THIS AS A WAY TO ACCLIMATE IN COMFORT.
ON THE GROUND CHINA COVERS EVERYTHING FROM TRULY REMOTE MOUNTAINS TO MODERN CITIES OF OVER 10 MILLION. BETWEEN IS THE SPECTRUM OF SMALLER CITIES, LARGE TOWNS, VILLAGES AND HAMLETS, MEANING THINGS LIKE ACCOMMODATION AND PLACES TO EAT EXTEND A LONG WAY OUT.
CHINA IS EASY TO MOVE AROUND AND PLAN IN SO DETAILED PROJECTIONS OF TIMES AND RESOURCES CAN BE MADE. PEOPLE CAN BE SHOCKED BY BOTH THE SCALE OF THINGS, ie DAYS MEASURED IN HUNDREDS OF KILOMETERS, AND EFFICIENCY MEASURED IN HOURS. WHILST WE NEED TO MOVE AT THE SPEED OF ACCLIMATION OUR SUPPLIES DON’T, SO WHILST WE ARE RELAXING AT 4500m, OUR GEAR MIGHT BE TRAVELLING THE 1000km FROM CHENGDU BY ROAD TRAIN THEN BEING DROPPED AT A GLACIER BY HORSE.
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VISAS & PERMITS
CHINA IS OPEN TO ALL NATIONALITIES, THOUGH SOME AREAS WITHIN IT ARE RESTRICTED. VISAS ARE NOT HARD TO GET WHEN YOU HAVE THE RIGHT PAPERWORK, AND ACCESS TO PLACXES LIKE TIBET AND XINJIANG ARE A MATTER OF BUREAUCRACY, TIME AND COST. A FEW AREAS ARE OUTRIGHT CLOSED BECAUSE OF UNREST, MILITARY STUFF, CONSERVATION, PROXIMITY TO BORDERS AND THINGS LIKE EARTHQUAKE DAMAGE, WHILST A FEW OTHERS ARE COMPLICATED ENOUGH TO QUALIFY FOR NOT BOTHERING.
CLIMBING PERMITS ARE NEEDED ON MOST AREAS, AND ARE ACTUALLY A SERIES OF PERMITS THAT COVER THE PEAK FEE, ACCESS, ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AND LIAISON. DEPENDING ON YOUR OBJECTIVE THEY CAN BE ISSUED EASILY, BUT MORE OBSCURE STUFF NEEDS A PLAN AND TIMELINE. EACH PERMIT IS DONE INDIVIDUALLY, THERE IS NO LARGE LIST OF NAMES YOU ARE JUST ADDED TO, AND IN SOME CASES NUMBERS ARE RESTRICTED TO KEEP IMPACT LOW.
AS A CENTRALIZED STATE, VISAS AND PERMITS ARE CLOSELY LINKED, AND DOCUMENTATION OF THE TWO IS YOUR TICKET THROUGH AN OTHERWISE COMPLEX LANDSCAPE. CHINA REQUIRES LIAISON AT SEVERAL STEPS, AND TRAVEL THROUGH ETHNIC AREAS CAN BE INVOLVED ONCE YOU GET AWAY FROM THE MAIN ROADS, BUT PRODUCING THE PERMITS FIXES ANY PROBLEMS. PERMITS SHOW WE HAVE BEEN RUBBER STAMPED ALL THE WAY DOWN FROM BEIJING, AND THE PEOPLE AT THE OUTPOSTS DON’T NEED TO WORRY. IN CASE OF EMERGENCY – THESE AREAS ARE PRONE TO EARTHQUAKES, UNREST AND ACCIDENTS – THE PROCEDURES ARE IN PLACE TO ADDRESS THINGS QUICKLY.
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COSTS
COSTS FOR THE SAME SORTS OF TRIPS FOUND IN NEPAL (FIRST ASCENTS, ALPINE STYLE ASCENTS OF 8000m PEAKS, WESTERN LED etc) ARE THE SAME, BUT WHERE YOUR MONEY GOES IS VERY DIFFERENT.
IN CHINA, THE AUTHORITIES TAKE ABOUT 30% FOR PERMITS, ADMINISTRATIVE PROCESS AND SET FEES, WHEREAS ELSEWHERE THEY TAKE ABOUT 60%. THE REMAINDER IS WHAT GOES ON SUPPLIES, TRANSPORT AND ACCOMMODATION, AND MOST CONCERNING – WAGES.
IN THIS RESPECT CHINA IS A MUCH BETTER DEAL, AS THE QUALITY OF ALL SERVICES AND LOGISTICS IS HIGHER, BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY PEOPLE ARE PAID WELL, ALMOST ALWAYS AS SMALL BUSINESSES SPECIALIZING IN WHAT THEY DO. WE THINK THIS IS NON-NEGOTIABLE, AND FOR ALL THAT MAY BE SAID ABOUT THE CHINESE ECONOMY, EVERYBODY ON OUR BOOKS IS PAID GOVERNMENT SET WAGES THAT ARE GOOD BY ANY METRIC. THIS HAS THE KNOCK ON EFFECT OF MEANING NO TIPS, BRIBES, BAKSHEESH OR GOUGING, AS WELL AS A CHANNEL OF ACCOUNTABILITY WHERE PEOPLE ARE EXPECTED TO FULLFIL WHAT THEIR WAGE PAYS FOR.
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RESCUE & EMERGENCY
EVERY INSURER WILL TELL YOU THEY COVER CLIMBING IN CHINA, MERRILY SAYING YES UNLESS QUESTIONED. THE REALITY IS THE MOUNTAIN AUTHORITIES INSIDE CHINA – WHICH ARE GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENTS – HAVE NEVER HEARD OF THEM, SO ANY TALK ABOUT PLANS IN PLACE IS SIMPLY NOT TRUE.
IN THE MOUNTAINS OF CHINA, ALL RESCUE IS DONE BY MEMBERS OF THE MOUNTAINEERING ASSOCIATIONS, WITH LOCAL OUTPOSTS INITIATING THINGS AND PROVINCIAL LEVEL COMING IN AS NEEDED. THESE GROUPS ARE EXPERIENCED, WELL TRAINED AND KNOW THE TERRAIN, BUT THINGS LIKE HELICOPTERS ARE VERY UNLIKELY.
COMMUNICATIONS IN CHINA ARE USUALLY GOOD, WITH LIAISON OFFICERS KNOWING WHAT WORKS, THIS MEANS A RESPONSE CAN BE INITIATED RAPIDLY, THOUGH ACTUAL ARRIVAL OF COURSE DEPENDS ON WHERE THINGS HAPPEN. THIS IS RELEVANT AS INSURERS DIFFER OVER HOW AND WHEN THEY BEGIN COVERAGE. WE FOUND GLOBAL RESCUE TO BE THE ONLY PROVIDER THAT EVEN MADE AN EFFORT TO ANSWER OUR QUESTIONS, SO CONSIDER THEM TO BE THE BEST OF THE OPTIONS.
HOSPITALS IN CHINA RANGE FROM BASIC TO WORLD CLASS, AND ONCE AT THE FIRST STAGE AFTER AN ACCIDENT THINGS PROGRESS QUICKLY BECAUSE TRANSPORT IS GOOD. THIS IS WHERE TRAVEL INSURANCE TAKES OVER FROM SPECIFIC RESCUE POLICIES, SO MOST DECENT PROVIDERS WILL WORK. BE AWARE THAT MOST STEPPING-OFF TOWNS IN CHINA WILL BE AROUND WHAT INSURERS CONSIDER HIGH ALTITUDE. EVEN THOUGH NO CLIMBING HAPPENS THERE, IT MAY BE ENOUGH TO TRIGGER THE NEED FOR A SPECIAL ADDITION.
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OBJECTIVES
THIS IS THE LAND OF FRONTIERS, AND THOUGH A FEW POPULAR AND EASILY ACCESSIBLE AREAS EXIST, THE REAL BEAUTY LAYS IN FIRST AND OBSCURE ASCENTS.
CHINA HAS THE LAST UNCORRUPTED 8000m OBJECTIVES, OUT IN THE NORTHERN KARAKORAM WHERE NO INDUSTRIAL COMPANIES GO, AND ACROSS TIBET EVEN THE MOST CLIMBED 6000-7000m PEAKS SEE IN ENTIRE YEARS WHAT PEAKS LIKE ISLAND, DENALI AND SPANTIK SEE IN A DAY.
THE PROBLEM HERE IS CHOICE, MEANING THAT KNOWING SPECIFICALLY WHAT YOU WANT TO DO MATTERS, WITH OPTIONS FOR NEARLY ANY MIX OF IDEAS FEASIBLE. HIGH ALTITUDE WINTER BIG WALL FIRST ASCENTS ARE THERE BY THE DOZEN, OR REMOTE FIRST ASCENT/FIRST DESCENT TRIPS, OR FAST MULTIPLE ASCENTS FROM SINGLE BASECAMPS, SEASONS OF FIRST ASCENTS, NEW ROUTES TO 8000m, OR ANY COMBINATION OF ALL THAT, THE OBJECTIVE EXISTS TO FIT THE WILDEST IDEAS.
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TRANSPORT & LOGISTICS
IF YOUR REFERENCE IS PAKISTAN, NEPAL OR SOUTH AMERICA BE READY TO BE SHOCKED, AS GETTING ANYTHING ANYWHERE IS SOMETHING THE CHINESE HAVE MASTERED. YOU CAN ARRIVE IN CHENGDU IN THE MORNING AN BE SITTING AT ABOVE 4000m DRINKING TEA IN EITHER TIBET OR XINJIANG THAT AFTERNOON, SOMETHING THAT IS INCREDIBLE BUT NOT RECCOMMENDED AS IT’S ACTUALLY TOO FAST.
NOWHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD DOES LOGISTICS FOR HIGH ALTITUDE OUTSTRIP WHAT A CLIMBER NEEDS AT THIS LEVEL. YES HELICOPTERS IN NEPAL CAN DEPOSIT A HANDFUL OF CLIMBERS TO CAMP 2, BUT WE ARE TALKING MOVING AN ENTIRE EXPEDITIONS WORTH OF STUFF FOR TWO MONTHS IN A FEW DAYS, USING NORMAL SERVICES WITH NO SPECIAL PROCESS.
FROM OUR BASE IN CHENGDU TO THE REMOTEST PARTS OF THE TIBETAN PLATEAU OR KARAKORAM, A SEAMLESS PROCESS CONNECTS NATION-WIDE TRANSPORT COMPANIES RIGHT DOWN TO THE CAMELS AND HORSES. UNLIKE ELSEWHERE THERE IS NO HUMAN ARMY WORKING FOR A DOLLAR A DAY, INSTEAD IT IS ALL LICENSED BUSINESSES OVERSEEN BY PROFESSIONALS.
VEHICLES TRAVEL DOWN SIX LANE FREEWAYS AND THROUGH TUNNELS UNDER ENTIRE MOUNTAIN RANGES, PLANES GET US INTO AIRPORTS ABOVE 4000m, ELECTRIC SUVs MOVE US TO ROADHEADS AND OUR CARGO SHIPS VIA TRAINS 2km LONG ACROSS DESERTS AND PERMAFROST, MEANING ANYTHING YOU WANT CAN BE TAKEN TO USE.
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GEAR
THERE’S PLENTY OF FAKE AND COPIED GEAR IN CHINA, BUT THE REAL STUFF AS WELL AS CHINAS OWN BRANDS ARE THERE AS WELL. IT IS ENTIRELY POSSIBLE TO FLY INTO CHENGDU WITH NOTHING AND OUTFIT FROM THE SAME BRANDS YOU HAVE BACK HOME, BUT THE TRUTH IS IT WON’T BE ANY CHEAPER.
WHAT CHINA DOES DO VERY WELL IS THINGS LIKE STOVES, BASECAMP STUFF AND EXPEDITION PORTAGE, WHERE A HUGE LOCAL MARKET DRIVES BIG DEMAND AND INNOVATION. CHINA SEES MILLIONS OF PEOPLE HEADING TO THE MOUNTAINS FOR EASY LEVEL RECREATION THAT HAS A WIDE MARKET TO CATER FOR IT, AND FOR GEAR THAT IS NOT HIGH-PERFORMANCE THERE’S A LOT AT GOOD COST.
NEVER OVERLOOK THAT PEOPLE WHO LIVE IN MOUNTAINS WILL BE PREPARED FOR IT, AND THOUGH NOT CLIMBERS THEY HAVE WHAT IT TAKES TO LIVE YEAR ROUND, AND WE OFTEN SUPPLEMENT OUR SPECIALIST CLIMBING STUFF WITH LOCAL GEAR. WE’VE USED HORSE HAIR ROPES TO CROSS RIVERS, TIBETAN RUGS IN OUR TENTS, THE LARGE THERMOSES ARE A STAPLE OF BASECAMPS AND LOCAL HATS, GLOVES AND JACKETS ARE GOOD WITH OFTEN TRADITIONAL DESIGNS. FAR FROM BEING ‘GOING NATIVE’ THIS IS SIMPLY WEARING LOCAL STUFF, AND HELPS TO BRIDGE THE GAP BETWEEN CULTURES WHERE WE ARE SEEN AS OVER-DRESSED MAGAZINE MODELS AND SUBJECT TO INTENSE CURIOSITY.
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FOOD
CHINA IS THE BEST COUNTRY FOR EXPEDITION EATING. THERE WE SAID IT, SIMPLY BASED ON WHAT DOZENS OF VERY EXPERIENCED CLIMBERS WHO HAVE COME THROUGH OUT TEAMS SAY.
WHETHER IT’S RIBS AND YAK STEAKS ON THE WAY IN AND DUCK AND VEGETABLES WAITING AT THE HOTEL ON THE WAY OUT, OR FRESH COFFEE BEANS, BAGELS AND CREAM CHEESE, CHINA HAS IT ALL WITH ZERO NEED TO SHIP STUFF IN.
WE REGULARLY MAKE ENERGY BARS IN THE HOTEL, EAT LAKSA, GREEN CURRY AND RAVILOI IN HIGH CAMPS, BUY FRESH BREAD AND YOGHURT IN TOWNS AND GET PISTACHIOS AND ALMONDS BY THE KILO. FOR THE FOOD ALONE, CHINA IS THE EASIEST PLACE TO STAY HEALTHY, MAINTAIN WEIGHT, FIX YOUR CRAVINGS AND TRY NEW STUFF, WHICH WE THINK HAS THE BIGGEST EFFECT OF ANY ON THE WAY AN EXPEDITION RUNS.
IN DECADES OF TRIPS WE HAVE HAD ONLY ONE CASE OF FOOD POISONING (HINT; DON’T EAT ‘FRESH’ PRAWNS WHEN YOUR 2000km FROM THE SEA, ROB…), AND NO MATTER HOW UNUSUAL THINGS GET THERE’S ALWAYS PLENTY OF GOOD STUFF TO EAT. VEGETARIANISM IS EASY TO CATER TOO AS MOST FOOD IS COOKED TO REQUEST EXACTLY HOW WE WANT IT, AND WE SUPPLY OUR TIME AWAY FROM CIVILIZATION EXACTLY HOW WE CHOOSE FROM INTERNATIONAL PROVIDERS.
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SECURITY
RIGHT FROM THE START OUR TRIPS USE PERMITS THAT COME WITH A BACK END OF SECURITY CLEARANCE FROM THE AUTHORITIES. IF WE CAN GET A PERMIT THEN WE HAVE THE PAPERWORK THAT GOES WITH IT FOR ACCESS, WHICH INCLUDES LIAISON AND TRANSLATION, SO ALL THE WAY DOWN THE LINE THROUGH VISAS, IMMIGRATION AND LOCAL BORDERS WE HAVE OFFICIAL CLEARANCE THAT KEEPS US SAFE.
TO A DEGREE WE ARE MONITORED SIMPLY BECAUSE WE ARE OUTSIDERS IN TRIBAL AREAS THE SAME WAY YOU WOULD BE IN THE AMAZON OR ANY FEDERAL INDIGENOUS LANDS, WHICH PERTAINS AS MUCH TO HISTORIES OF UNREST AND TERRORISM AS IT DOES TO GOVERNMENT PARANOIA. WE ARE NOT INTERESTING TO THE AUTHORITIES BECAUSE WE HAVE BEEN SIGNED OFF ON RIGHT FROM THE START, AND THE CONCERNS THEY HAVE ARE MORE ABOUT OUR SAFETY THAN ANYTHING TO DO WITH SPYING. IN THE PAST ENTIRE TEAMS OF CLIMBERS HAVE BEEN LOST ACROSS A HUGE AREA WHERE RESCUE IS INHERENTLY HARD, SO MOST OVERSIGHT IS ABOUT THAT RATHER THAN THINGS LIKE COMPUTER CHIPS AND PRISONS.
BOTTOM LINE IS THAT 25 YEARS OF CLIMBING ON CHINAS BORDERS, USUALLY IN THE EXACT AREAS DEEMED CONTENTIOUS, WE HAVE NEVER BEEN ARRESTED, REPRIMANDED OR ACCUSED OF ANYTHING. A FEW TIMES WE HAVE BEEN TURNED AROUND, HAD OUR CREDENTIALS CHECKED AND HAD TO EXPLAIN OURSELVES, BUT EVERY TIME IT’S WHEN WE HAVE ARRIVED UNANNOUNCED AND HAS BEEN POLITE AND USUALLY INVOLVED A MEAL TOGETHER.
THIS IS NOT TO SAY INCIDENTS CANNOT HAPPEN THOUGH, AND OTHER TEAMS THAT HAVE TRIED TO ENTER CLOSED AREAS OR CLIMB WITHOUT PERMITS HAVE BEEN REPRIMANDED FOR THINKING THE RULES DIDN’T APPLY TO THEM. LIKEWISE DRONES GET A BAD WELCOME AS WILL ANY OVERT RELIGIOUS OR POLITICAL AGENDA THAT STIRS UP LOCALS.
STICK TO CLIMBING, LISTEN AND OBSERVE AND THERE’S NO PROBLEM.
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POLITICS
CHINA HAS A UNIQUE SET OF CIRCUMSTANCES, SET ON TOP OF A CULTURE VERY DIFFERENT TO THE REST OF THE WORLDS. WE KNOW WHAT THE MEDIA SAYS ABOUT SOME THINGS SUCH AS TIBET, UYGHERS, PRISONS AND PERSONAL FREEDOM, AND WE KNOW IT IS FAR MORE COMPLICATED THAN THAT. WE ARE NOT EXPERTS IN POLITICAL ANALYSIS OF MODERN CHINA BUT WE DO HAVE A LOT OF TIME CLOCKED THERE, AND ALL WE CAN SAY IS WHAT WE SEE ON THE TV IS NOT HOW THINGS ARE ON THE GROUND.
WHAT WE DO SEE IS A BIG DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE RULING LEADERS OF CHINA AND THE POPULATION, WHO JUST LIKE IN ANY COUNTRY SHOULD NOT BE JUDGED BY THEIR POLITICIANS. WE SEE PEOPLE WHO ARE ON THE CREST OF ESCAPING THE PROBLEMS OF THE PAST, WITH NO APPETITE OF RISKING THOSE GAINS WITH ANY ANTICS BETWEEN LEADERS.
THESE ISSUES DON’T INTRUDE ON WHAT WE DO. WE WORK COMPLETELY WITHIN THE CULTURAL AND ETHNIC MIX OF MODERN CHINA, AND NO ONE IN OUR WORLD GETS UNFAIRLY TREATED. EVEN COMPARED TO PAKISTAN, INDIA AND NEPAL WHERE THE DIVIDE BETWEEN THE MOUNTAIN PEOPLES AND THE LOWLANDERS IS STARKLY OBVIOUS, CHINA IS FAR MORE INTEGRATED.
ALL WE CAN SAY TO THE OUTSIDE OBSERVER IS COME SEE FOR YOURSELF, AND TALK TO THE TIBETANS, THE UYGHERS, THE MONGOLS, THE HAN, THE HUI AND THE DOZEN OTHER SMALLER ETHNIC GROUPS WE REGULARLY INTERACT WITH. SIT WITH THE NOMADS, DRINK COFFEE WITH THE URBAN WORKERS AND EAT WITH THE HERDERS, AND SEE FIRST HAND RATHER THAN TAKE THE CORPORATE MEDIAS WORD FOR IT.
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HUMAN RIGHTS
WE PAY OUR PACK ANIMALS MORE THAN SOME PLACES PAY THEIR WORKERS. ALL OUR CREW GET LIVING WAGES, PAID AS EXPERTS, AND SUBJECT TO INDUSTRY STANDARDS FOR THINGS LIKE LICENSES AND JURISDICTION. THE STUFF ABOUT UNFAIR LABOR IN THE FACTORIES OF THE BIG CITIES AND ON CONSTRUCTION SITES NO DOUBT HAS SOME TRUTH TO IT, BUT IT DOESN’T APPLY TO THE THINGS WE ARE INVOLVED IN.
INSTEAD, OVER +20 YEARS, WE HAVE SEEN FAMILIES GROW, FIRST GENERATIONS HEAD OFF TO SCHOOL, LIVING STANDARDS SOAR AND COMMUNICATION SPREAD. AREAS ONCE DEEMED TOO RESTIVE TO ENTER ARE NOW SAFE, BANDITRY HASN’T HAPPENED TO US IN OVER 10 YEARS AND LOCAL AUTHORITIES ASKING FOR BRIBES IS NOW A THING OF THE PAST.
WE SPEND A LOT OF TIME DEEP WITHIN TIBETAN AND MUSLIM AREAS, AND GET TO SEE THE EFFECTS OF GOVERNMENT AND MODERNIZATION ON THEM. LIKE ALL TRIBAL AND TRADITIONAL PEOPLE EVERYWHERE THINGS ARE NOT ALWAYS SIMPLE OR IDEAL, WITH THE INFLUENCE OF BOTH CHINESE AND WESTERN CULTURE CONFRONTING THEIR TRADITIONS.
AS CLIMBERS WE GET TO AFFECT THINGS IN A SMALL WAY, AND PRESENT AN ALTERNATIVE TO THE MONOLITHIC CULTURES THAT THREATEN LOCAL ONES. WE GET SHOW THAT THE OUTSIDE WORLD ISN’T A BINARY CHOICE BETWEEN OPPRESSION OR COCA-COLANIZATION AND POVERTY LIKE IN THE PAST, BUT THAT PEOPLE CAN THINK INDEPENDANTLY JUST AS WE DO.
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THE ENVIRONMENT
WHILST THE CITIES OF CHINA ARE NOTORIOUS FOR THINGS LIKE AIR POLLUTION AND RAMPANT CONSTRUCTION, THE MOUNTAINS OF CHINA ARE SURPRISINGLY WELL PRESERVED. EVERY YEAR WE FIRST HAVE TO CHECK WHICH AREAS ARE OPEN, AS FREQUENTLY ENTIRE RANGES AS EXTENSIVE AS THE ALPS ARE CLOSED OFF, TO LET THEM RELAX FROM THE TRAFFIC OF HUMANS.
MOST PLACES WE GO THE GROUND WATER IS DRINKABLE, WE OFTEN SEE ENDANGERED WILDLIFE AND EVIDENCE OF HUMANITY IS SMALL. IN CHINA WILDERNESS MEANS WILDERNESS, AND EVEN THOUGH NOMADIC PEOPLE CALL SOME WILD AREAS HOME, VAST TRACTS ARE ALSO UNINHABITED AND SIMPLY TOO REMOTE BECAUSE OF ALTITUDE, LATITUDE AND ARIDNESS.
THINGS ARE CHANGING THOUGH, AS ROADS EXTEND, BUT ALSO DUE TO CLIMACTIC FACTORS RELATING TO GLACIAL MELT, RIVER FLOW AND FREEZE LEVELS. TO CLIIMBER THIS MEANS CHANGES TO TIME OF YEAR AND RESEARCH INTO THE CURRENT STATE OF THINGS, THOUGH SUCH A HUGE SPECTRUM OF ENVIRONMENTS OVER THE WHOLE AREA MEANS THERE’S ALWAYS GOOD ALTERNATIVES.
CHINA’S BAD REPUTATION FOR THINGS LIKE ANIMAL PRODUCTS IS BEING ALLEVIATED AS BELIEF IN FOLK MEDICINE DWINDLES AND SUPERMARKETS REPLACE OPEN ONES, PLUS THE SOMEWHAT IRONIC ISSUE OF FAKES. ANIMALS LIKE SNOW LEOPARDS, WILD CAMELS, WOLVES, IBEX AND BEARS ARE MAKING A COMEBACK, AND WE OFTEN SEE EVIDENCE OF THEM.
OUR OWN POLICY IS ZERO IMPACT, WHICH ISN’T HARD AS OUR TRIPS ARE SELF-SUSTAINED, AND SOME OF OUR REGULARS ARE BURNING MAN RAVERS WHO KEEP US UPDATED ON THE LATEST PRACTICES. THIS ALWAYS WORKS OUT WEIGHING NO MORE THAN ANY BAD PRACTICES, SO REALLY IS A NO-BRAINER, AND AS WE RARELY VISIT THE SAME AREA TWICE THERE IS NO ACCUMULATION OF WASTE ANYWHERE ON THE MOUNTAIN.
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CULTURE & LANGUAGE
THERE IS NO TOURISM BUBBLE WHERE WE GO – WE MAKE SURE OF IT.
NO SECTOR OF INDUSTRY IS DEVOTED TO RUNNING THINGS SPECIALLY FOR FOREIGNERS, AND EVEN OUR BUSINESS AVOIDS ANY BUBBLE THAT KEEPS US FROM THE REALITY OF WHERE WE ARE. WE DO THINGS AT A REAL LEVEL, WITH NO FOREIGNERS PRIVELEDGE, BECAUSE NO OTHER OPTION EXISTS.
THE CULTURES WE PASS THROUGH ARE THE REAL THING, NOT THE CIRCUS VARIETY THERE FOR ENTERTAINMENT. THE HAN, TIBETAN, UYGHER, KYRGYZ, YI, MONGOL AND HUI WE ENGAGED WITH ARE NOT ACTORS OR TOURISM OPERATORS, AND FREQUENTLY WE MEET NOMADS WHOSE CULTURE WE ARE UNFAMILIAR WITH.
THIS CULTURAL PARADIGM IS WHAT MAKES CLIMBING IN CHINA AN ACTUAL EXPEDITION AND NOT TOURISM, AS NOT SPECIAL INDUSTRY EXISTS TO PRESENT THINGS ON YOUR TERMS. NOTHING IS RENDERED DOWN TO AN EASY ENGLISH OR WESTERNIZED PRODUCT SO YOU DON’T HAVE TO DEAL WITH THE COMPLEXITIES OF LOCAL LIFE, AND THERE ARE NO APPROXIMATIONS OF WESTERN CULTURE TO LURE YOU FROM THE LOCAL EXPERIENCE.
MELTDOWNS FROM CULTURE SHOCK DO HAPPEN, USUALLY THE RESULT OF STRESS FROM OTHER THINGS NOT FINDING A FAMILIAR ANCHOR TO BE ALLAYED WITH. THE RESPONSE HERE IS ALWAYS TIME, TAKEN AT AN EASY LEVEL SO THE ACCUMULATION OF STRESSES CAN UNRAVEL AND THE EXPECTATION TO PERFORM IS SET BACK A BIT. SOMETIMES THIS MEANS AN EXTRA DAY OR TWO IN A HOTEL SO THE MOTION OF TRAVEL CAN CATCH UP, OR IT CAN MEAN PUSHING FORWARD TO GET OUT OF TOWNS AND INTO THE RELATIVELY TIMELESS ROUTINE OF THE MOUNTAINS.
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SO, FOR THE CLIMBER, TIBET AND XINJIANG HAVE SOMETHING ALMOST LOST ELSEWHERE IN THE HIGH ALTITIDE WORLD, NAMELY REAL EXPLORATION FOR THE SAKE OF NEW OBJECTIVES AND NEW WAYS OF CLIMBING. THE VERY LACK OF INDUSTRY MEANS NOTHING IS FORMATTED OR DONE TO A TEMPLATE, SO WHOLE NEW WAYS OF CLIMBING CAN BE DEVISED IN CONCERT WITH ADVANCES IN GEAR AND TRAINING. RATHER THAN REPEAT TIRED OLD ROUTES FOR INFINITESIMAL GAINS, WHY NOT DO SOMETHING NEW AND DO IT IN A WHOLE NEW SETTING.
CHINA HAS ALL THE PIECES FOR HUGE EVOLUTIONS IN BIG MOUNTAIN CLIMBING, BURSTING THE MYTH THAT THIS STUFF HAS BEEN LOST TO THE 8000m FILTH AND COMMERCIALISM THAT MAKES THE HEADLINES. THE STAR SERIAL CLIMBERS RACKING UP HIGH MEDIA PROFILE ASCENTS SOUTH OF THE HIMALAYAN DIVIDE HAVE NO INTEREST IN THE PEAKS ACROSS THE TIBETAN PLATEAU AND TRANS-KARAKORAM TRACT LET ALONG THE TIEN SHAN AND KUNLUN, LEAVING THESE AREAS TO THE NEXT GENERATION WHO WILL TAKE THINGS IN NEW DIRECTIONS.