KEEPING YOUR HEAD WHILST CLIMBING, LITERALLY

YOUR HEAD IS A DATA CENTRAL PROCESSING UNIT AND AS SUCH NEEDS TO BE TREATED LIKE ONE WITH FUNCTIONAL STRATEGY. IT IS A FINELY TUNED MECHANISM FOR THE INPUT OF INFORMATION AND ENERGY, AS WELL AS A MECHANISM FOR COMMUNICATION, SO KEEPING IT FREE OF INTERFERENCE IS A PRIMARY GOAL.

CLIMBERS REGULARLY CONSIDER SLEEPING SYSTEMS AND GLOVE SYSTEMS AND BOOT SYSTEMS AND STOVE SYSTEMS, BUT HEAD SYSTEMS ARE STRIKINGLY ABSENT AS A WELL DEFINED AND STREAMLINED ELEMENT. USUALLY THOUGHT OF AS A SELECTION OF SOMEWHAT DISJOINTED BITS, IT IS RARE TO SEE PEOPLE TREAT THEIR HEADS AS SYSTEMATIC AS THEIR HANDS.

YOUR HEAD IS A SENSITIVE SET OF INSTRUMENTS AND EVEN MINOR DISCOMFORT STARTS TO DISTRACT YOUR THINKING AND MESS WITH YOUR ABILITY TO FOCUS. ALARM BELLS SOUND WHEN SKIN STARTS TO BECOME DAMAGED AND WIND-BLOWN ICE CRYSTALS HIT, OR WHEN YOUR LIPS ARE TOO COLD TO SPEAK OR YOUR VISION EVEN SLIGHTLY IMPAIRED.

IT PAYS TO MAINTAIN A GOOD CLIMATE AROUND YOUR HEAD SO YOU CAN KEEP THE SCOPE OF YOUR THINKING WITHIN A COMFORTABLE ZONE AND YOUR MIND OUTWARDS. PAIN, ANNOYING GEAR, STRAINED EYES, ICE ENCRUSTED COVERINGS AND RESTRICTED VIEWS ALL TURN THE MIND INWARDS AND AWAY FROM THE JOB AT HAND. AS THE LOUDEST SENSATION WILL OVERRIDE OTHERS, AND THE DENSITY AND DISTANCES TRAVELLED OF NERVE TISSUE IN THE HEAD MAKE FOR BY FAR THE DENSEST CLUSTER IN THE BODY, REDUCING DISCOMFORT HERE ALLOWS SIGNALS FROM THE REST OF THE BODY AND ENVIRONMENT TO BE OBSERVED MORE CLEARLY.

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WE ALL KNOW WE HAVE TO PROECT OUR HEADS AND FACES FROM IMPACT, FROSTBITE, SOLAR RADIATION AND SENSORY IMPAIRMENT, AND WE ALL DO IT IN WAYS WITH VARIOUS BITS OF GEAR. AS CONDITIONS GET HARDER AND DEMANDS GET HIGHER THE NEED FOR A MORE EFFECTIVE SYSTEM IS NEEDED, THAT IS SIMPLE TO USE AND SIMPLE TO CARRY WE OFTEN SEE CLIMBERS WITH MIXED ARRAYS OF RANDOMLY ARRIVED AT GEAR, THAT DON’T INTEGRATE WELL BECAUSE THEY HAVE BEEN PUT TOGETHER HAPHAZARDLY.

A GOOD HEAD SYSTEM, LIKE ANY SYSTEM, IS LEAN, ROBUST AND EFFICIENT, AND KEEPS YOUR HEAD LITERALLY CLEAR OF BOTH PARAPHENALIA AND CONCERN. YOU CAN SEE WELL AND HEAR WELL AND EAT PROPERLY AND BREATH UNOBSTRUCTED AND MOVE EASILY, WITH THE FEWEST NECESSARY PARTS THAT EACH DO THEIR JOB WELL.

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IMPACT

WE ALL KNOW TO WEAR A HELMET, AND ON ALPINE ASCENTS THAT INCLUDES EVEN EASY TERRAIN THAT ON AN INDUSTRIAL TRIP MIGHT BE FIXED, BUT WERE SANS FIXED LINES PRESENTS A SLIDE RISK THAT WILL ALMOST CERTAINLY INCUR HEAD INJURIES.

CURRENTLY HELMETS LIKE THE GRIVEL MUTANT, EDELRID SALATHE AND BD VAPOR HAVE BOUGHT DESIGNS BACK FROM BEING FRAGILE FOAM THINGS, INCORPORATING COMPOSITE PANELS THAT SHIELD OFF IMPACT BETTER THAN ENTIRELY FOAM MODELS. WHERE ONCE A FOAM HELMET WAS NEARLY USELESS ONCE IT SUFFERED IMPACT, THESE COMPOSITE MODELS HAVE LONGER LIFE SPANS AND SUFFER LESS IN TRANSIT.

THERE’S NOT MUCH MORE TO BE SAID THAT HASN’T BEEN ALREADY ON THE SUBJECT. WITH ALPINE CLIMBING THE OLD ADAGE THAT IF YOU NEED CRAMPONS THEN YOU NEED A HELMET SIMPLY RESOLVES ANY DEBATE.

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VISION

SUNGLASSES ARE MANDATORY AT ALTITUDE WHERE RADIATIONAL EXPOSURE IS HIGHER, AND COUNTLESS INFORMATION EXISTS ON THE FINER POINTS OF LENSES. WE SUGGEST CHOOSING GLASSES THAT ALSO PROTECT FROM SPINDRIFT AND HAVE WRAP AROUND FIELDS OF VISION, WHICH EVEN THOUGH COOL EXCLUDES RETRO STYLE GLACIER GLASSES. EVERYONE BREAKS GLASSES AT SOME POINT, USUALLY CRACKING THEM, SO WE ADVOCATE ONES WITH FULL RIMS WHERE EVEN IF THE LENSE CRACKS IT WILL STILL STAY IN PLACE AS A DEGREE OF CONTINGENCY. THE LOWER EDGE OF THE IS ALSO LESS LIKELY TO CAUSE INJURY IF FORCED DOWN ONTO YOUR FACE IN AN IMPACT, AND THE LOWER PROFILE GOES A LONG WAY TO SEEING DOWNWARDS, TO YOUR HARNESS AND FEET

FORGET SKI GOGGLES AND GO FOR DEDICATED ALPINE GLASSES FROM COMPANIES LIKE GRIVEL AND MONTBELL. THESE ARE LOW VOLUME GOGGLES THAT HAVE BETTER FIELDS OF VISION THAN SKI GOGGLES BECAUSE THEY SIT CLOSER TO THE FACE, AND BECAUSE THEY ARE NOT MADE FOR RUSHING WIND AND POWDER THEY ARE BETTER VENTED AND SIMPLER. ALPINE GLASSES HAVE LOWER VOLUME SO FIT EASIER INTO A POCKET, AND PRESENT LESS OF A TRAP FOR EXHALED AIR THAT FOGS UP THE LENSES.

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HEARING

IT IS VITAL YOU CAN HEAR WHEN CLIMBING, WHICH INCLUDES BOTH HAVING THE EARS UNIMPEDED AND HAVING NOTHING THAT CREATES ITS OWN NOISE WHEN SUBJECT TO WIND.

ANYTHING OVER YOUR EARS NEED TO BE SUPER PERMEABLE, WHICH EXCLUDES SHELLED FABRICS AND TIGHT FITTING SHELLED HOODS, AS WELL AS MULTILE LAYERS OF BEANIES, HOODS, BALACLAVAS AND MASKS.

MATERIALS NEED TO NOT CRACKLE AND BILLOW IN HIGH WINDS, WHICH CAN BE A REAL PROBLEM WITH HARDSHELLS AND SOME FABRICS USED OVER INSULATION. IN THIS CASE LOOK FOR HOODS THAT HAVE CINCH CORDS AROUND THE FACE, SO THEY CAN BE DRAWN IN LIKE A COLLAR EVEN WHEN NOT WORN OVER THE HEAD.

SHELL HOODS WORN OVER HELMETS ARE NOTORIOUS FOR CREATING CHAMBERS OF WIND BLASTED SOUND, AS THE AIR CATCHES AROUND MODERN HELMET DESIGNS THAT HAVE LESS AND LESS SOLID MASS. A GOOD SOLUTION HERE IS TO COVER THE HELMET, EITHER WITH A STRETCH BASELAYER HOOD OR ONE OF THOSE COVERS USED BY CYCLISTS EXCACTLY FOR THIS REASON.

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EATING & DRINKING

YOU LIVE AND SLEEP IN YOUR HEAD SET SO IT IS IMPORTANT TO HAVE SOMETHING THAT WORKS ACROSS ALL ENVIRONMENTS AND MAKES EATING EASY SO YOU DON’T REDUCE DOING IT. COMPLICATED MASKS WITH FIDDLY FASTENERS, MULTIPLE STRAPS GOING EVERYWHERE, SYSTEMS NEEDING PRECISE ALIGNMENT TO AVOID FOGGING etc ALL CONSPIRE TO MAKING A SIMPLE DRINK DIFFICULT WHICH STARTS THE SPIRAL TO DEGRADED PERFORMANCE.

ANY MASK OR BUFF THAT CANNOT BE SIMPLY PULLED ASIDE THEN RELEASED BACK INTO POSITION IS GOING TO BE A PROBLEM, AS IS A SYSTEM BURIED UNDER MULTIPLE LAYERS. ONE OF THE MAIN ADVANTAGES OF HEAT EXCHANGER MASKS IS THEIR SEMI-RIGID SHAPE FLIPS BACK INTO PLACE EASILY, AND THE SPACE THEY KEEP IN FRONT OF YOUR MOUTH MEANS YOU CAN CHEW WITH IT ON. MASKS LIKE THE FACE GLOVE DON’T NEED TOUCHING AT ALL.

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COLD

PROTECTING YOUR HEAD FROM THE COLD IS A FULL TIME AFFAIR, WITH IT BEING SUBJECT TO SEVERAL FORMS OF HEAT LOSS. YOU NEED TO PROTECT IT FROM WIND, AMBIENT TEMPERATURES, WINDBORNE SNOW AND ICE CRYSTALS, AND THE EVAPORATION OF HEAT FROM ANY SWEAT.

HEAT EXCHANGER MASKS HAVE BEEN COVERED HERE, AND ARE ONE OF THE THINGS TO RECENTLY ENTER COMMON USE THAT IS HAVING A REAL EFFECT. THE SURFACE AREA OF THE RESPIRATORY SYSTEM IS LARGE, AND ANALOGOUS TO DRINKING COLD WATER, THE CONTINUAL INHALATION OF COLD AIR AND EXHALATION OF HEAT IS A SOURCE OF HEAT LOSS YOU DON’T NEED TO HAVE.

SOME HEAT EXCHANGER MASKS ARE MORE ROBUST THAN OTHERS, AND ANYTHING WITH RIGID PLASTIC PIECES WILL DEMAND HAVING SPARES. THIS MAKES MESH AND NEOPRENE MASKS MORE BOMBPROOF AS WELL AS LESS UNCOMFORTABLE TO SLEEP WITH.

HEAT EXCHANGER MASKS REPLACE BUFFS, SCARVES AND BALACLAVAS FOR THIS ROLE, AS THEY DON’T FREEZE AND THEY CREATE AN IDEAL HUMID SPACE THAT WON’T DEGRADE OVER TIME LIKE JUST FABRIC WILL.

BUFFS ETC STILL HAVE THEIR PLACE AS A GENERAL LAYER, AND DOWN LOW WHERE CONDITIONS DON’T DEMAND THE FULL EXTENT OF THE SYSTEM. BUFFS OVERLAP WITH PROTECTION FROM SUN AND SPINDRIFT, BUT BEWARE OF ANY BUFFS THAT ARE WOOL OR COTTON BECAUSE THEY STAY DAMP, LOOSE THEIR FIT AND FREEZE. POLYESTER IS THE FIBER OF CHOICE.

LIKE ANY BASELAYER, DON’T FORGET YOU HAVE INSULATED LAYERS TO PROVIDE WARMTH, AND WHAT YOU NEED DIRECTLY AGAINST YOUR HEAD IS ONLY TO STABILIZE SKIN TEMPERATURE. YOU DON’T NEED THICK FLEECE OR PILE BALACLAVAS, NOR WINDBLOCKING FABRICS OTHER THAN OVER AREAS PRONE TO FROSTBITE AND TO EXCHANGE HUMIDITY. SOME CLIMBERS FIND BASELAYER HOODS PROVIDE ENOUGH PROTECTION TO FORGO FURTHER THINGS LIKE BEANIES AND BUFFS, THOUGH DESIGNS THAT TICK ALL THE BOXES ARE FEW, FEWER STILL LESS LIKELY TO BE ATTACHED TO A BASELAYER TOP YOU LIKE.

BALACLAVAS CAN WORK HERE, BUT NEED TO BE THE STRETCHIEST AND LOWEST PROFILE ONES AVAILABLE, AND NEED TO HAVE GOOD COVERAGE WITHOUT BEING OVER THE TOP. PLENTY EXIST THAT DONT QUITE COVER THE BROW, MOUTH OR NOSE, WHILST MANY OTHER DESIGNS ARE SO DARTH VADER-LIKE THAT OTHER GEAR LIKE GOGGLES AND HEAT EXCHANGER MASKS DON’T INTEGRATE WELL AND EATING CAN BE DIFFICULT.

BEANIES ARE ONE THING THAT SEE FAR MORESUPERFLUOS DESIGN THAN MOST OTHER THINGS, AND THE SIMPLER AND MORE STREAMLINED THE BETTER. A WELL FITTED BEANIE NEEDS NO EXTRA GIMMICKS, WITH THE BEST ONES JUST BEING A SINGLE LAYER THAT BREATHES WELL AND IS LOW BULK. DON’T WASTE YOU MONEY ON WEARING SOME COMPANIES LOGO UNLESS THEY PAY YOU TO, THIS IS ONE BIT OF GEAR YOU WILL FIND IN A RECYCLE SHOP. DON’T GO TOO WARM, TOO FLOPPY, OR TOO MANY POMPOMS, BUT CONSIDER EAR FLAPS ESPECIALLY IF YOU WILL BE APPROACHING IN COLD WINDS.

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SUN

SUN CREAM IS GREAT BUT PROBLEMATIC TO PUT ON, AND ONCE ON HAS A LIFESPAN THAT IS INCONSISTENT AND NEEDS MAINTENANCE. SUPPLIES RUN OUT AND IT IS RELATIVELY HEAVY FOR THE AMOUNTS USED ON A LONG TRIP TO CONSTANT ALTITUDE, AND IT CAN CONTAMINATE OTHER THINGS WITH ITS TASTE. BETTER IS TO USE A MATERIAL SYSTEM THAT PHYSICALLY BLOCKS RADIATION AND DOESNT DEGRADE WITH USE, THAT CAN BE PUT ON AND OFFEASILY AND PROTECTS FROM ALL ANGLES.

WE LIKE A COMBINATION OF STRETCH BUFFS AND SUN MASKS LIKE THE FACE GLOVE FROM OUTERU BECAUSE IT IS EASILY ADAPTED, REQUIRES NO MAINTENANCE, OVERLAPS A LOT WITH WIND AND COLD PROTECTION AND INTEGRATES WITH OTHER GEAR WELL. MASKS REPLACE THE USE OF TAPE APPLIED DIRECTLY TO YOUR SKIN, WHICH IS A GOOD IDEA IN THEORY BUT WHICH LIKE SUN SCREEN IS PROBLEMATIC IN THE APPLICATION AND MAINTENANCE

THE FACE GLOVE DOES WHAT NO BUFF EVER CAN, AND PROTECTS THE NOSE, CHEEKS AND SIDES OF THE FACE WITHOUT FOGGING YOUR GLASSES, AND NOTHING ELSE REALLY LIKE IT EXISTS ON THE MARKET. OUTERU HAS MANAGED TO MAKE IT LOOK COOL TOO, AND USED MATERIALS THAT ARE THERMOFORMABLE, COMING UP WITH SOMETHING THAT FILLS A REAL NEED IN A WAY BETTER THAN ALL OTHER OPTIONS.

A BRIMMED HAT KEEPS RADIATION FROM YOUR EYES, AND THOUGH IT DOES NOTHNG FOR REFLECTED LIGHT REDUCES GLARE AND HELPS WITH SPINDRIFT NOT UNLIKE HOW A KAYAKERS BRIMMED HELMET CREATES AN AIRSPACE IN FROM OF THE FACE UNDER CASCADING WATER. ANYONE WHO HAS BIVIED ON A LEDGE, SEATED, BEING DUSTED BY SPIN DRIFT, WILL KNOW HOW MUCH A VISOR HELPS AS EVERYTHING DUSTS UP WITH SNOW IN THIS CASE, A VISOR IS BEST AS IT INTEGRATES BEST WITH OTHER GEAR LIKE HELMETS AND BEANIES, AND TAKES UP LESS SPACE. THE LIGHTEST ARE FOUND IN THE ULTRARUNNING MARKET, BUT DON’T OVERLOOK GOLFING AND TENNIS SHOPS WHERE THEY ARE A STAPLE OF THOSE SPORTS.

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WIND

MUCH OF THIS SUN PROTECTION DOUBLES FOR THE WIND, BUT IT IS WORTH NOTING THAT BUFFS DON’T DO MUCH WHEN CONVECTION GETS TOO HIGH, LEADING TO HEAT LOSS GREATER THAN WHAT TEMPERATURES ALONE INCUR THAT IS KNOWN AS WINDBURN. WIND ALONE DRIES AND DAMAGES THE SKIN, AND COMBINED WITH SUN AND COLD IS THE FAST TRACK TO FROSTBITE.

WIND NEEDS A DEDICATED WINDMASK, THAT CAN COME IN THE FORM OF A SUN MASK OR HEAT EXCHANGER, OR FOR CONDITIONS THAT DON’T WARRANT THAT SOMETHING THAT HAS REAL PROTECTION. THIS CAN BE DONE IN TWO WAYS, EITHER SEMI-RIGID MATERIALS LIKE NEOPRENE OR SHELLED FLEECE THAT WON’T FREEZE, OR A HIGHLY TEXTURED FABRIC LIKE PILE OR 3D MESH THAT RETARDS AIRFLOW LIKE AN ANIMALS FUR. THE LATTER FABRICS CAN ALSO STILL BE BREATHABLE, FOR WHEN EXERTION IS HIGH.

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COMMUNICATION

IT’S FINE TO JUST SHUNT UP FIXED LINES IN YOUR OWN WORLD ON A LARGE COMMERCIAL ASCENT, BUT IT’S NOT FINE IN A SMALL, INTIMATELY DEPENDENT TEAM ON TRICKY TERRAIN WHERE COMMUNICATION IS IMPERATIVE. YOUR CPU ON YOUR SHOULDERS NEEDS TO BE ABLE TO BROADCAST DATA AND RESPONSES, AND CONVEY NUANSANCES BETWEEN PEOPLE SO THEY CAN WORK AS A TEAM.

WHAT THIS MEANS TO YOUR PROECTIVE HEAD GEAR IS BEING ABLE TO SPEAK CLEARLY, SHAKE YOUR HEAD, NOD AND GUAGE FACIAL EXPRESSIONS, SO YOU CAN COMMUNICATE ACROSS ROPE LENGTHS, WIND NOISE AND IN LOW LIGHT. ANYTHING THAT MUFFLES YOUR VOICE, BURRIES YOU UNDER LOTS OF HOODS AND RELIES ON CLOTHING PULLED UP OVER YOUR YOUR MOUTH IS A FAIL.

THE BEST SYSTEM ALLOWS YOUR MOUTH AND EYES TO BE SEEN, WHICH IS OF COURSE NOT ALWAYS DOABLE WHEN THE WIND IS UP.COVERINGS THAT CAN BRIEFLY BE REMOVED TO MAKE TALKING CLEARER, AND BUFFS THAT ARE STRETCHY BUT TIGHT ARE HELPFUL, AS ARE LENSES THAT ALLOW EYE CONTACT OR THAT CAN BE BRIEFLY MOVED ASIDE.

THE POINT HERE IS TO NOT BURY YOURSELF IN LAYERS OF THICK FABRICS, THINKING IT WILL SERVE YOU WHEN ALL ITS DOING IS INTERFERING WITH BASIC STUFF. THE BEST FABRICS AND DESIGNS ARE EASY TO USE AND RELATIVELY LOW BULK, AND PUT TOGETHER AND WELL TESTED ARE MORE LIKE A SECOND SKIN THAN SUIT OF ARMOR.

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COMBINED

THE BEST HEAD SYSTEM IS THE ONE YOU FORGET YOU ARE WEARING BECAUSE IT MOVES WITH YOU, IS STREAMLINED AND IS INTUITIVE TO ADJUST. WHAT WE DESCRIBE CAN SLEPT IN, OR DONNED IN THE MORNING, WITH VERY LITTLE NEED TO REMOVE OR ADD ANYTHING OVER THE COURSE OF A DAY. ONCE ON, YOUR HELMET NEED NOT BE REMOVED, AND THINGS LIKE THE FACE GLOVE ARE SPECIFICALLY DESIGN TO NOT INTERFERE WITH OTHER GEAR AS IT GOES ON AND OFF.

OUR FAVOURITE SYSTEM CONSISTS OF;

LIGHT, SEMI-SHELLED HELMET

RUNNING VISOR

LIGHT BEANIE, RECYCLED

ALPINE GLASSES

SUN GLASSES

SYNTHETIC BUFF, WITH DIFFERENT MAPPED WOVEN AREAS TO OFFER VARYING PERMEABILITY

3D MESH HEAT EXCHANGER MASK

FACE GLOVE

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THIS SYSTEM WORKS BECAUSE MOST OF IT IS ON YOU MOST OF THE TIME, AND WHAT ISN’T TAKES UP MINIMAL SPACE AND MAINTENANCE IN YOUR POCKETS. THE BUFF CAN GO FROM SITTING LOOSE AROUND YOUR NECK TO BEING PULLED UP OVER EVERYTHING, HEAT EXCHANGER AND FACE GLOVE INCLUDED, TO FORM A SYSTEM FOR THE HARSHEST CONDITIONS.

THINGS WE TRY TO AVOID ARE FANCY ‘INTEGRATED’ DESIGNS, AS IT IS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO GET TWO OR MORE BITS OF GEAR YOU EITHER WANT TOGETHER OR TO BE MADE WELL. EXAMPLES HERE ARE HEAT EXCHANGER MASKS INTEGRATED INTO BALACLAVAS AND BUFFS, BRIMS AS PART OF BEANIES AND EVEN HELMETS AND SUN GUARDS INTEGRATED INTO EYEWEAR (YES EVEN INCLUDING THE CLASSIC NOSE GUARD). INSTEAD WE WANT A SYSTEM THAT IS COMPLETELY INTERCHANGEABLE, THAT WILL SEE YOU FROM THE APPROACH THROUGH RIVER VALLEYS TO THE NASTIEST CONDITIONS UP HIGH, INCLUDING FRIGHENINGLY COLD MORNINGS, INTENSE GLARE AND SLEEPING IN TENTS OR BIVIES.

THIS ARRAY OF GEAR WILL SEE YOU ACROSS WEEKS OF EFFORT AND A HUGE SPECTRUM OF CONDITIONS FROM THE TURKISTANI DESERTS TO THE KARAKORAM AND TIBETAN SUMMITS, BUT IS MADE FROM THE FEWEST MOVING PARTS.