EXPEDITION HARNESS SET UP

YOUR HARNESS IS YOUR BASIC KIT, THE EQUIVALENT OF A SOLDIERS FRONTLINE, WITH A SET OF STANDARD STUFF THAT REMAINS ON IT AT ALL TIMES FOR CONSTANT AND IMMEDIATE USE. LIKE A SOLDIER, TIME SPENT FIDDLING, TWEAKING, ADJUSTING AND ARRANGING YOUR HARNESS WILL PAY OFF OUT IN THE REAL WORLD WHERE IT MATTERS, AND IS THE SIGN OF SOMEONE WHO PAYS ATTENTION TO THE DETAILS THAT MATTER. DO NOT SHOW UP WITH A CAREFULLY BAGGED, EMPTY HARNESS AND ANOTHER BAG OF BITS. IT IS EXPECTED THAT TEAMSTERS WILL HAVE A WORKING HARNESS SET UP THEY ARE FAMILIAR WITH, THAT IS CARRIED COMPLETE, READY TO GO STRAIGHT FROM THEIR PACKS. THE START OF A ROUTE AT +5000m IS NOT THE PLACE TO START ARRANGING YOUR PERSONAL GEAR.

YOU WILL NEED THE BASIC GEAR FOR BOTH RESCUE AND SELF-RESCUE, THOUGH IT MUST BE LIGHT AND IDIOT-PROOF TO USE IN COMPROMISED SCENARIOS. ROUND STOCK BINERS, ONE OR TWO TIBLOKS AND A FEW SLINGS ARE THE SIMPLEST AND MOST ADAPTABLE THINGS TO HAVE, AND THE EASIEST TO LEARN WITH. DUCKS AND ROPEMEN ARE ALSO GOOD, AS THEY HAVE LOTS OF OTHER USES THAT JUSTIFY THEIR WEIGHT AND FIDDLINESS. THOUGH CAMMED PULLEYS AND REGULAR PULLEYS ARE NICE IN IDEAL SCENARIOS, THEY DON’T REALLY EARN THEMSELVES A SPOT ON A SUPER LIGHT ALPINE HARNESS.

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THE HARNESS

MOST RACK GETS CARRIED ON A SLING SO IT’S EASY TO HAND OVER AND SEARCH THROUGH. THIS GOES FOR BOTH LEADING AND CLEANING AND DUE TO RACKS BEING QUITE SMALL AND A LOT OF INSULATED CLOTHING, CAN BE RACKED ON A REGULAR SLING, THOUGH A WIDER NYLON ONE IS NICER, OR EVEN BETTER, ONE OF BLUE ICE’S ALPINE RUNNERS.

HARNESSES NEED REAL GEAR LOOPS AS YOU WILL HAVE A BUNCH OF PERSONAL GEAR THAT WILL HAVE CONSTANT USE, MAKING SKIMO AND ADVENTURE RACING ONES A BAD CHOICE. ON OUR TRIPS HARNESS ARE USED IN FULL, NOT LIKE COMMERCIAL TRIPS WHERE ALL THEY DO IS CLIP YOU TO AN ASCENDER. YOU WILL NOT BE WEARING IT UNDER YOUR INSULATION, JUST AS YOU PROBABLY WILL SLEEP IN IT AT SOME POINT, AND MAYBE EVEN TAKE A LEAD FALL, SO IT NEEDS TO HAVE FULL FUNCTION WHICH INCUDES A PROPER BELAY LOOP.

WE FIND THE EDELRID HARNESS OUT PERFORMS THE BLUE ICE AND GRIVEL ONES SIGNIFICANTLY AS THE BUCKLES WORK BETTER, THE GEAR LOOPS HAVE BETTER CLEARENCE AND THEY DON’T TWIST UP QUITE SO BAD. RELEASEABLE LEG LOOPS ARE IMPORTANT WITH 8000m BOOTS.

CLIPPERS

IT IS IMPERATIVE TO HAVE A WAY TO SECURE YOUR TOOLS WHEN YOU NEED YOUR HANDS FREE. HAVE TWO, AS ONE IS NEVER ENOUGH, AND POSSIBLY THREE IF YOU USE STILL PETZL TOOLS WHERE THE WIDE HEADS DON’T FIT TWO TOOLS NICELY ON ONE CLIPPER.

GRIVEL-STYLE FULLY RATED METAL CLIPPERS ARE A GOOD IDEA BUT THEY DON’T SIT WELL ON LIGHT ALPINE HARNESSES, WHERE THE CLASPS OF THE VARIOUS PLASTIC ONES HELP KEEP THE HARNESSES SHAPE. DON’T GET ONES THAT NEED A DOUBLE ACTION TO GET TOOLS OFF AS THEY WILL DRIVE YOU INSANE, AND DON’T GET ONES THAT GET FIXED TO THE HARNESS EITHER AS THEY CAN’T BE REMOVED FOR SLEEPING.

TAIL

THIS WHAT CLIPS YOU TO THE MOUNTAIN SO NEEDS TO BE SIMPLE AND BOMBPROOOF, AND DESERVES TO BE CHOSEN SPECIALLY AS WILL GET A LOT OF USE. BEYOND ANCHORS IT CAN BE USED ASCENDING, ABSEILING AND HAULING AND SHOULD BE STREAMLINED SO IT STAYS UNOBTRUSIVE WHEN NOT NEEDED. THIS IS NOT EVEREST SO YOU WON’T NEED DOUBLE TAILS FOR FIXED ROPES, AND ANY JUGGING THAT GETS DONE CAN HAVE A CHANGE-OVER SOLUTION RIGGED AS NEEDED.

TAILS WITH CAMMING ADJUSTERS TEND TO SUCK IN THIS ENVIRONMENT, ICING UP AND BEING FIDDLY, BETTER TO HAVE SOMETHING WITH NO MOVING PARTS THAT CAN BE ADJUSTED, LIKE A SIMPLE SLING KNOTTED INTO INCREMENTS, OR THE BEST WE’VE FOUND, AN ALPINE RUNNER SHORTENED WITH A SLIPPING HITCH.

PRUSSICK

A LOOP OF 4mm WITH A BINER ON THE BACK OF THE HARNESS IS AS MUCH A NO BRAINER AS HAVING A BELAY DEVICE ON THE FRONT.

THOUGH WE ADVOCATE THE SIMPLEST FORM OF ABSEILING – CLIP THE BELAY DEVICE AND GO – THERE’S DEFINIETLY TIMES WHEN A PRUSSICK IS ADDED SO IT SHOULD BE SIZED PREFECTLY FOR THIS. TAKE THE 10mins, MAKE IT NICE, OR BUY ONE OF THE SPECIALIST THING THAT ARE DISPROPORTINATELY EXPENSIVE BUT YOU WILL THANK WHEN IT’S RAP 15 AT 0300 AND THE GLACIER LOOKS STILL A LONG WAY OFF.

TIBLOKS

TIBLOKS REPLACE PRUSSICKS IN MANY WAYS BUT ALSO DO THEIR OWN THING, AND FORM PART OF THE RESCUE/ESCAPE KIT IF NOTHING ELSE. THEY NEST SATISFYINGLY WHEN CLIPPED TWO TOGETHER ONTO A ROUND BAR STOCK BINER, AND BENEFIT FROM A SHORT RETAINER CORD, AND GET LOTS OF USE.

BE AWARE THERE IS A RIGHT AND A WRONG WAY TO CLIP A TIBLOK AND IT’S IMPORTANT TO KNOW, EXPONENTIALLY MORE SO WITH SKINNY ALPINE ROPES. THEY BOTH USE THE SAME AMOUNT OF ENERGY AND BRAIN CELLS, SO THERE IS NO EXCUSE TO DO OTHER THAN BEST PRACTICE EVEN THOUGH SOME SOURCES CLAIM (WRONGLY) THE DIFFERENCE IS MINIMAL.

ICE THREADER

THESE GET USED MORE THAN JUST FOR THREADS WITH SCREWS, AND MAKE SLINGING ROCK MUCH EASIER, ESPECIALLY WITH GLOVES ON. A THREADER FORMS PART OF A PERSONAL ESCAPE KIT, SO YOU CAN BE INDEPENDENT AT ANCHORS, AND SITS AT THE REAR OF THE HARNESS FOR WHEN READY.

RIGID TYPE THREADERS WORK BEST WHEN THINGS NEED THEM THE MOST, THOUGH MAY NEED SLIGHT MODIFICATIONS TO MAKE THEM THE BEST THEY CAN BE. THE HOOK SHOULD BE AS SHARP AS POSSIBLE TO JAG EASILY (THEY NEVER COME THIS WAY), AND THEY NEED TO BE EASY TO USE WITH GLOVED HANDS.

FORGET FLEXIBLE ONES AS THEY ARE USELESS FOR THREADING ANYTHING BUT ICE.

ASCENDER

NOT ALL PITCHES ARE FOLLOWED BY CLIMBING, AS ESPECIALLY IN GROUPS OF THREE IT’S WAY FASTER TO FOLLOW BY JUGGING. AS HEAVY AS ASCENDERS ARE, WHEN THE TIME COMES YOU WON’T WANT A PRUSSICK OR TIBLOK YOU WILL WANT THE REAL THING. GET THE SIMPLEST AND LIGHTEST ONE AVAILABLE

IT CAN HITCH STRAIGHT ONTO A TAIL AS NEEDED (BLUE ICE RUNNERS ARE GOOD FOR THIS), BUT SHOULD ALWAYS HAVE A SECURITY BINER TO GO WITH IT FOR DODGY STUFF.

ROPE CAPTURE DEVICE

A ROPEMAN OR KONG DUCK ISN’T A BAD IDEA, AND THOUGH IT DOESN’T REPLACE AN ASCENDER IT DOES STOP YOU USING YOUR BIG ASCENDER FOR STUFF IT’S NOT REALLY DESGINED FOR. THESE LITTLE DEVICES FIND A LOT OF USE FOR SIMU-CLIMBING AND FIXING EASY GROUND, EARNING THEIR PLACE FOR ENERGY THEY SAVE THEIR. THEY ALSO ARE NOT TEETHED, SO ARE MORE ACCEPTABLE IN FALLS, SO CAN BE A RUNNING SELF BELAY ON THINGS LIKE TRAVERSES AND ICE FALLS.

THESE THINGS ARE NOTORIOUSLY EASY TO DROP AND LOSE SO NEED A RETAINER LOOP, AND LIKE A TIBLOK CAN BE CLIPPED WITH BEST PRACTICE OR WITHOUT. THE KONG DUCK IS ARGUABLY SIMPLER AND EASIER TO USE, THOUGH THE NEWER MODEL ROPEMAN NOW COPIES THE BASIC DESIGN.

BELAY/RAPPEL DEVICE

THIS MUST BE FOR SKINNY ROPES, DOWN TO ABOUT 7mm, AND MUST BE A ‘GUIDE’ STYLE. HAVING SEEN PROBLEMS BEFORE WITH EXOTIC DEVICES THAT NOT EVERYONE RECOGNIZES, WE LIKE THE GARDEN VARIETY, SINGLE PIECE, ATC TYPE. THESE CAN BE USED BACKWARDS, FORWARDS, SIDEWAYS AND UPSIDE DOWN WITHOUT ISSUE, MAKING THEM FAR SUPERIOR TO DEVICES THAT NEED SPECIAL ORIENTATION OR WORK BY COMPLEXITY. THE BEST OF THE LOT EASILY BEING THE WILD COUNTRY LIGHT ALPINE AS IT DOES THINGS THEY WON’T TELL YOU ABOUT IN THE LITERATURE. MAKE IT BRIGHT COLOUR, SPRAY PAINTING IF NEEDED. GRIVEL DO A VERY NICE PINK ONE.

THIS CAN STAY CLIPPED TO THE BELAY LOOP THE ENTIRE TIME, SO IT’S ALWAYS THERE, CLIPPED WITH A BIG LOCKING BINER THATS EASY TO ABSEIL WITH. OF THESE WE THINK THE GRIVEL DOUBLE GATES ARE THE MOST IDIOT PROOF.

LOOSE BINERS

SEVEN OR EIGHT WIRE GATES AND TWO OR THREE LOCKERS THAT ARE OUTSIDE THE BINERS USED FOR SPECIFIC, ie FREE FOR RANDOM STUFF, WILL GET COUNTLESS USE. MAKE THEM NORMAL SIZE – NOT TINY LITTLE ONES – AND HAVE A SELECTION OF SHAPES AS THEY ALL CLIP DIFFERENTLY AT DIFFERENT ANGLES.

BE AWARE THAT LOOSE BINERS ARE A SHARED RESOURCE ON AN ALPINE TEAM, AND GET PASSED AROUND AND GRABBED AS NEEDED. DO NOT BRING EXPENSIVE SPECIALIZED SPORT BINERS IF LOSING SOME UPSETS YOU, THINK MORE THAT YOU ARE BRINGING A BUNCH TO CONTRIBUTE TO THE COLLECTIVE RATS NEST

SLINGS

A CLUSTER OF THREE OR FOUR 120cm SLINGS, PREFERABLY DYNEEMA BECAUSE IT’S SKINNY AND LIGHT, AND EACH WITH A SINGLE BINER MEANS YOU CAN MAKE YOURSELF SAFE ALMOST ANYWHERE. FORGET BULKY CORDLETTES BECAUSE YOU WILL HAVE ACTUAL CORD (SEE BELOW).

WE LIKE THE NEWISH ALPINE RUNNERS – WHICH ARE REALLY JUST AN ENCLOSED SLING – BUT THEY NEED A BIT OF FAMILIARIZING TO FIND THEIR TRUE ERGONOMICS. THEY DON’T REPLACE ALL SLINGS, BUT ARE VERY RELIABLE UP WHERE THERE’S A LOT OF ROCK.

CORD & KNIFE

20m OF 4mm PLUS A LITTLE KNIFE TO CUT IT FITS INTO A 300ml STUFF SACK AND IS BETTER CARRIED ON THE BACK OF THE HARNESS THAN IN THE LID OF YOUR PACK. MAKE THE WHOLE THING BRIGHT COLOURS, ESPECIALLY THE CORD, AND CLIP IT WITH A SMALL LOCKER AS A SORT OF ESCAPE KIT. A SMALL CRAFT KNIFE IS FINE, DON’T FALL FOR CARRYING A GUCCI KNIFE, AND MAKE SURE IT HAS A RETAINER LOOP.

THIS LITTLE BAG CAN CLIP WITH THE THREADER, SOME TIBLOKS, A KONG DUCK AND A PRUSSICK TO FORM A SET OF STUFF THAT GETS YOU HOME AGAIN, AND IT PAYS TO GET GOOD AT USING EVERYTHING HERE. THE CORD SHOULD BE DROP-COILED INTO THE BAG SO IT CAN BE MEASURED OUT NICELY (NEVER HAVE IT SKEINED), AND SECURE DRAW CLOSURE WILL KEEP IT SECURE WITHOUT HAVING TO TIE THE END OFF.

LEASHES

FACTOR THESE IN BUT THEY CAN OFTEN LIVE IN THE TOP OF A PACK TILL NEEDED, BUT ANY STEEP AND EXPOSED DONE WITHOUT THEM IN REACH IS ASKING FOR TROUBLE. SOME LEASES ARE TINY AND WON’T TAKE UP MUCH ROOM, BUT IT’S HARD TO FIND MINIMALIST ONES THAT HAVE A BETTER CONNECTOR THAN SOME RELATIVELY CHUNKY BINER.

WE SEE THESE CONNECTING BINERS OFTEN CAUSING ISSUES, AND PREFER THE GRIVEL DOUBLE SPRING LEASHES AS THE T-BAR WORKS WELL, BUT IT WOULD BE NICE TO SEE SOMETHING LIKE THAT ON A MORE MINIMALIST LEASH. THANKFULLY LEASHES ARE NOT A RATED THING SO ARE ONE OF THE FEW BITS OF BELT KIT THAT CAN BE MODIFIED AND HOME MADE. ANOTHER SOURCE CAN BE LEASHES FOR WORK TOOLS THAT ARE OFTEN AT A FRACTION OF WHAT CLIMBING COMPANIES CHARGE.

MONKEY’S HEAD

THE GNARLIEST OF BIVYS, IN SPINNING WEATHER, ON SMALL LEDGES, DEMAND THAT YOU TIE IN TO ‘SLEEP’. WHILST SLEEPING BAGS AND BIVY BAGS OFTEN HAVE SOME TOKEN FEATURE THAT ON PAPER CLAIMS TO FOR FOR THIS, THE REALITY IS THEY NEVER DO. THE SOLUTION HERE IS A MONKEY’S HEAD KNOT, TIED WITH 5mm CORD ON A LOOP, ABOUT 25cm LONG WHEN FINISHED. THIS IS HITCHED TO THE BELAY LOOP, THE MONKEY’S HEAD PUSHED INTO THE FABRIC OF THE SLEEPING BAG AND/OR BIVY BAG, AND TIED OFF FROM THE OUTSIDE WHERE IT GOES TO AN ANCHOR.

IF YOU ARE DOING THIS, YOU ARE LIVING THE DREAM/NIGHTMARE, AND IT DOESN’T TAKEN A REPEAT PERFORMANCE TO KNOW THAT A WELL TIED AND LENGTHED MONKEY’S HEAD IS 10000% BETTER THAN SOMETHING YOU RIG WITH COLD HANDS BY TORCH LIGHT WITH ONE BUTT CHEEK ON AN ICY LEDGE.

LIKE LEASHES, THIS CAN STAY IN THE PACK AS YOU SHOULD SEE ITS USE COMING, BUT AS A SECRET SYMBOL OF HARDCORE IT’S HARD NOT TO SMUGLY HAVE ON YOUR HARNESS ALL THE TIME. THE COOL KIDS WON’T KNOW, BUT THE OLD BASTARDS WILL, AND THE OTHER 364 NIGHTS A YEAR IT SERVES AS SAILOR-THEMED KEY RING.

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EVERYTHING COVERED HERE SHOULD BE NICE AND LIGHT, EASILY FITTING INTO THE TOP OF A PACK TO BE GRABBED AS SOON AS NEEDED. AT THE END OF A DAY IT’S ALL CLIPPED INSIDE THE TENT AND READY TO GO – WHICH CAN BE AT ANY TIME – OR IF YOU SLEEP IN YOUR HARNESS EVERYTHING GETS TAKEN OFF AND CLIPPED ON A SLING, EXCEPT THE TAIL OF COURSE WHICH GOES TO AN ANCHOR.

YOU WILL LIVE IN THIS SET AND YOUR LIFE WILL DEPEND ON IT, SO IT DOESN’T HURT TO TEST DRIVE THINGS AND GET SETTLED WITH SOMETHING FAMILIAR. WE ALWAYS ADVOCATE A ‘TIGHT BUT LOOSE’ ETHIC OF AN ORGANIC SET UP THAT IS INUTITIVE WITHOUT BEING STRICT. KNOW WHERE THINGS ARE BUT KNOW THAT THINGS GET MESSED UP, AND OVER TIME IT ALL BECOMES A GOOD SYSTEM.

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A NOTE ON HARDWARE

DISMISS ALL NOTIONS OF RETAINING A SHINY, CAREFULLY REFINED AND COLOUR CODED ENSEMBLE. STUFF GETS USED, STUFF GETS LOST, THERE’S A MOUNTAIN TO CLIMB AND MORE IMPORTANTLY – TO DESCEND. ACCEPT THAT THIS STUFF TAKES A BEATING AND MAY BE SACRIFICED TO THE MOUNTAIN GODS, SO DON’T BRING ANY FAVOURITE SHINY BITS OF BLING YOU ARE EMOTIONALLY ATTACHED TO.

IT IS WORTH GETTING THE LIGHTEST FULL STRENGTH GEAR YOU CAN, BUT THIS NEED NOT MEAN FANCY. COMPANIES SUPPORT THEMSELVES BY SELLING POINTLESS DETAILS AND MINUTE TWEAKS THAT PROBABLY WON’T HAVE MUCH MEANING IN BIG MITTS AND WHEN BEING PUNCHED INTO UNCLIMBED ROCK, WHEN YOU SIMPLY GRAB FROM THE RACK. MAKE SURE GATES OPEN EASILY WITH GLOVES ON, THAT EVERYTHING IS IDIOT PROOF, AND THINGS THAT CAN BE EASILY DROPPED HAVE CLIP LOOPS.