K2 PRE-ACCLIMATION

ARRIVE ACCLIMATED AND GET CLIMBING

– RALF DUJMOVITS

OUR UNIQUE K2 PRE-ACCLIMATION HAS YOU AT THE BASE OF THE NORTH RIDGE WEEKS EARLIER THAN A NORMAL ITINERARY

OUR PREACCLIMATION REVOLUTIONIZES TECHNICAL HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING IN TIBET SO WE ARE EXCITED TO BRING IT TO OUR 7000 & 8000m KARAKORUM NORTH ASCENTS. THIS IS AUTHENTIC, ACTUAL ACCLIMATION, TAKING ADVANTAGE OF MODERN INFRASTRUCTURE COMBINED WITH A WHIRLWIND TRIP THROUGH RARELY SEEN PARTS OF TIBET. NOTHING ARTIFICIAL, LACKING EVIDENCE OR INVASIVE AT HOME – JUST WELL APPLIED OLD-SCHOOL METHODS

USING TIME-PROVEN METHODOLOGY THIS PRE-ACCLIMATION PROCESS USES A VERSION OF OUR TIBET ACCLIMATION SCHEDULE FOR AROUND 12 DAYS, PREFIXED ONTO A DIRECT FLIGHT TO KASHGAR THEN AN EXPEDIATED APPROACH TO K2’S BASECAMP AT 5000m.

THIS REDUCES OVERALL TRIP LENGTH BY 20% AND REPLACES TRADITIONAL ACCLIMATION FROM THE INTENTIONALLY SLOWED APPROACH OVER THE HIGH PASSES THEN THE SLOW PORTERAGES UP TO BASECAMP BEYOND WHERE THE CAMELS CAN GO.

THIS PREACCLIMATION SCHEDULE ALLOWS FOR GENUINE METABOLIC ADAPTIONS MADE AT REAL ALTITUDE IN A VERY RELAXED & COMFORTABLE PROCESS, COMBINED WITH A TRIP THROUGH THE RARELY VISITED PARTS OF EASTERN TIBETS HIGH ALPINE VILLAGES. FOR MANY THIS TRIP ALONE WILL BE A HIGHLIGHT OF THEIR EXPEDITION TO K2

THIS ITINERARY REVOLVES AROUND REAL-WORLD FEEDBACK WITH TEAM MEMBERS AND IS EXTREMELY ADJUSTABLE WITH THE ALTITUDES WE GO TO.

ARRIVE ACCLIMATED

THE SINGLE FACTOR MOST ADVANTAGEOUS TO SUCCESS ON AN 8000m ROUTE ISN’T SPENDING MORE TIME ON IT, IT’S ARRIVING ACCLIMATED AND RESTED TO MOVE DIRECTLY ON TO THE CLIMBING. THIS MEANS A LEVEL OF ACCLIMATION THAT ADDRESSES THE LABORIOUS CARRIES TO BASECAMP, BY ARRIVING AT THE GLACIER FRESH AND IN PEAK CONDITION.

SINCE INITIATING PREACCLIMATION FOR OUR TRIPS, DEVELOPMENT HAS MOVED ON WITH A PRIMARY CONCERN EMERGING OF OUR IMPACT ON THE ENVIRONMENT OF THE NORTHERN KARAKORAM. AS MORE PEOPLE GET INTERESTED IN GOING THERE WE HAVE CHOSEN TO START THE PROCESS OF IMPACT MITIGATION AS EARLY AS POSSIBLE BY SIMPLY REDUCING THE NUMBER OF DAYS SPENT OUT THERE WHEN THEY CAN MORE EFFICIENTLY BE SPENT IN TIBET.

THE PROS

FLIGHTS FOR TEAM MEMBERS ARE MORE EFFICIENT AS BY FLYING INTO CHENGDU IT’S A MORE COMMON FLIGHT PATH WITH FEWER TRANSITS. FOR MANY THIS WILL BE ONLY TWO, AS CHENGDU IS A MAJOR CHINA DESTINATION, MAKING THINGS FAR MORE DIRECT THAN EITHER KATHMANDU OR ISLAMABAD.

ROAD TRANSIT WORKS OUT ALMOST THE SAME, THE TRIP UP ONTO THE TIBETAN PLATEAU IS ABOUT HALF THE DRIVING WE WOULD HAVE DONE FERRYING AROUND KASHGAR AND OUT TO THE TRAILHEAD. WE NOW TRAVEL THIS LEG IN UNDER HALF THE TIME IN MORE EFFICIENT VEHICLES ALONG NEW ROADS, REDUCING WHAT TOOK DAYS NOW TO HOURS.

WILDERNESS IMPACT ON THIS ITINERARY HAS ABOUT 2 WEEKS LESS OF CONSUMING STOVE FUEL & LIVING IN CAMPS; THIS TRANSLATES PER CLIMBER TO ABOUT 1250g OF FUEL NOT BURNED, 14 SOLID TOILET DEPOSITS NOT MADE, 50 LIQUID TOILET DEPOSITS NOT MADE, 50 DISHES NOT WASHED, 10 AAA BATTERIES NOT DRAINED & 4 LOTS OF WASHING POWDER NOT USED – ALL NOT NEEDING TO BE CARRIED, CONTAINED AND DISPOSED OF.

VALUE

SIMPLY PUT; DAYS ON EXPEDITION IN XINJIANG COST MORE THAN DAYS IN TIBET, SO IT MAKES SENSE TO SPEND DAYS ACCLIMATING WHERE IT’S BOTH CHEAPER AND MORE EFFECTIVE.

THE COST VALUE IN OUR K2 PRE-ACCLIMATION ITINERARY IS EXTRAORDINARY. THE COMBINATION OF THE TOUR OF EASTERN TIBET & THE GENUINE MOUNTAIN ALTITUDE ADAPTION THAT THEN TAKES OFF 20% OF THE K2 TIMELINE, AND IT’S BENEFITS THAT PLAY OUT DURING THE CLIMBING MAKE THIS THE ULTIMATE WAY TO EDGE YOUR PERFORMANCE ON A ROUTE LIKE THE NORTH RIDGE OF K2. SWAPPING OUT THE PREACCLIMATION PROGRAM FOR THE EXTRA TIME IN XINJIANG EQUALS OUT TO COST NOTHING MORE, NOTING IN THIS CASE YOUR TRIP COST NOW INCLUDES THE DOMESTIC FLIGHTS INTO XINJIANG.

NO OTHER EXPEDITION HAS TIBET & THE KARAKORAM IN A SINGLE ITINERARY. THIS IS BOTH A TRIP THROUGH A RARELY VISITED PART OF TIBET PACKED WITH UNCLIMBED PEAKS TO 6000m & TO THE HIGHEST ALTITUDE WILDERNESS SURROUNDING K2. IF ‘MOUNTAIN TIME’ IS THE GOAL THEN THIS IS THE WAY TO ACHEIVE IT. IN THE COURSE OF THIS TRIP 95% OF THE PEAKS YOU WILL SEE HAVE NOT BEEN NAMED OR CLIMBED – MOST OF THEM WILL NEVER HAD ANYONE TO THE BASE OF THEM LET ALONG THE SUMMIT.

USING THIS PRE-ACCLIMATION METHOD LETS YOU GET ONTO K2’S NORTH RIDGE IN THE BEST POSSIBLE PHYSICAL CONDITION WE KNOW HOW. THE PHASE IN TIBET IS ALMOST LAZY, FUNCTIONING UNIQUELY AS BOTH A TRAINING TAPER & AS ACCLIMATION. ALL THE REST TIME ALLOWS THE BODY THE +5000m OF GENUINE ADAPTION YOU WILL ARRIVE AT K2 WITH WHICH IS FAR AHEAD OF THE CONDITION MOST PEOPLE START CLIMBING WITH, TRANSLATING INTO THE BEST ADVANTAGE YOU CAN BRING TO THE OBJECTIVE. IF YOU’VE SPENT A YEAR OR MORE TRAINING FOR THE NORTH RIDGE ROUTE THIS IS THE ULTIMATE WAY TO APPROACH IT

TIBET PHASE

SEA-LEVEL TO +5000m

COMFORTABLE

LOW STRESS

HIGH RECOVERY

EXCELLENT NUTRITION

THIS PHASE USES SOMETHING IMPOSSIBLE TO ACHEIVE BY ARTIFICIAL METHODS – REAL ALTITUDE

WE USE A SCHEDULE WE HAVE USED MANY TIMES PREVIOUSLY FOR GAINING ALTITUDE, PUSHING THE THRESHOLD, THEN DROPPING BACK TO ADAPT. WE ARE HIGHLY MOBILE DURING THIS PHASE SO WE CAN ADJUST OUR ALTITUDE GAIN IN REAL TIME TO EXTREMELY FINE INCREMENTS, AS WELL AS ADJUST OUR EXPOSURE TIME TO OPTIMIZE ON PERSONAL CONDITION. UNLIKE HOME TENT METHODS, WE SPEND 100% OF OUR TIME ON THE ALTITUDE CURVE, WITH A REAL-TIME SCHEDULE FOR REST, ACTIVITY & EATING.

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DURING THIS PHASE WE DRIVE BETWEEN ALTITUDE THRESHOLDS IN THE BEAUTIFUL TOWNS OF EASTERN TIBET, STAYING IN COMFORTABLE HOTELS AND HIKING TO OUR HIGH POINTS. WE MOVE AT A VERY SUSTAINABLE PACE TO ADAPT PROPERLY AND TO INTERACT WITH THE PLACES WE VISIT. THIS IS AS MUCH A TRIP TO THE MOUNTAINS OF TIBET AS IT IS AN ACCLIMATION SCHEDULE.

DAILY TOPOGRAPHIC HIGHPOINTS ARE TRIP-OF-A-LIFETIME LOCATIONS LIKE MOUNTAIN PASSES, SUB-PEAKS OR COLS. NIGHTS ARE THEN SPENT GETTING QUALITY REST SO OUR BODIES CAN ADAPT DURING SLEEP, STAYING IN HOTELS WITH GOOD FACILITIES & EATING IN PLACES THAT MAKE ‘DOWNTIME’ JUST AS INTERESTING AS THE ACTIVE PERIODS. THE HIGHEST NIGHTS WE STAY IN TENTS SCHEDULED AROUND HIGHER HIKES SO BY THE TIME WE ARRIVE ON THE MOUNTAIN TO CLIMB WE WILL ALREADY HAVE SPENT SEVERAL NIGHTS AT HIGH ALTITUDE.

DAY 01

ARRIVE CHENGDU, SLEEP 100m

MODERN, HIGH TECH, DYNAMIC & COOL. THIS IS WHERE IT ALL BEGINS

DAY 02

TRANSIT TO EASTERN TIBET. SHORT TRIP TO 3800m, SLEEP 3000m

ONLY IN CHINA IS IT POSSIBLE TO GO FROM SEA LEVEL TO OVER 4000m IN TIBET BY GROUND TRANSPORT IN A SINGLE COMFORTABLE DAY. EXPERIENCE HAS SHOWN US THIS IS THE HEALTHIEST INITIAL ALTITUDE GAIN FOR OVER 90% OF OUR TEAM MEMBERS. THE AFTERNOON IS SPEND ON AN EASY HIKE TO THE BASE OF 6000m PEAKS. .

DAY 03

TRANSIT TO 3500m. EASY DAY HIKE TO 4000m. SLEEP 3500m

CROSSING ONTO THE TIBETAN PLATEAU IT’S NOW PEAKS, RIVERS, YAKS & FOREST AS FAR AS YOU CAN GO IN EVERY DIRECTION. WE DRIVE FURTHER WEST, TAKING TIME FOR AN EASY DAY HIKE TO GAIN SEVERAL HUNDRED METERS ALTITUDE, BEFORE RETURNING TO THE TIBETAN TRADING TOWN WE STAY IN TO SLEEP

DAY 04

TRANSIT TO 4000m. EASY DAY HIKE TO 4500m. SLEEP 4000m

THIS DAY WE HEAD FOR THE NOMADIC TRADING TOWNS CLOSER TO THE CLOSED ‘INNER TIBET’ BORDER WHERE THINGS GET MUCH MORE TRADITIONAL. OUT AMONG THE UNNAMED PEAKS IT’S IMPOSSIBLE TO AVOID GOING TO 4500M, THEN RETURNING TO STAY AT A HEALTHY 4000m.

DAY 05

TRANSIT TO 4500m. EASY HIKE TO 5000m. SLEEP 4500m

WE SPEND THIS DAY RESTING UNTIL WE HEAD OUT TO A HIGH POINT, HIKE FOR THE FIRST TIME TO 5000m THEN DESCENT AND CAMP COMFORTABLY BY THE VEHICLES AT 4500m IN A REMOTE VALLEY SURROUNDED BY 5500m PEAKS ON ALL SIDES.

DAY 06

TRANSIT TO 4750m. EASY HIKE TO 5000m. SLEEP 5000m

WE RETURN TO TOWN TO DROP SOME ALTITUDE, RELAX IN OUR HOTEL & CHECK OUT THE NOMADIC TRADING OUTPOST. THAT EVENING WE RETURN TO A HIGH PASS, HIKE A SHORT DISTANCE AND SPEND OUR FIRST NIGHT AT 5000m.

DAY 07

TRANSIT TO 4000m. REST DAY 4000m. RETURN TO SLEEP AT 5000m

THIS DAY IS A REPEAT OF DAY 5, DESCENDING TO REST IN TOWN DURING THE DAY THEN RETURNING FOR A SECOND NIGHT AT 5000m.

THIS IS THE SAME POINT NORMOBARIC HYPOXIC PROGRAMS LASTING A MINIMUM OF SIX WEEKS MAY BRING YOU TO

DAY 08

RETURN TO 4000m SLEEP AT 4000m

THIS DAY IS A FULL DECOMPRESSION DAY WHERE 4000m WILL FEEL VERY NORMAL NOW. WE SPEND IT IN AS RELAXED A WAY AS POSSIBLE, SLEEPING, EATING, AROUND TOWN, SITTING ON THE HOTEL ROOF WITH BINOCULARS. THE AIM HERE IS TO EXERT AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE.

DAY 09

HIKE TO 5300m. SLEEP 5300m

THIS DAY GOES ALL THE WAY TO OUR HIGHEST POINT AND STAYS THERE, AS A FINAL PUSH.

WE ATTAIN THE HIGHEST PLACE WE CAN WITHOUT ACTUAL ALPINE CLIMBING, AND SETTLE IN COMFORTABLY TO EAT, REST & ADAPT.

DAY 10

FULL DAY AROUND 5300m, UP TO 5500m. SLEEP 5300m

THIS DAY IS PURE ADAPTION, WITH AN EASY HIKE HIGHER AS CONDITIONS ALLOW

DAY 11

RETURN TO 4000m. SLEEP 4000m

THIS DAY IS FULL DECOMPRESSION THE SAME AS DAY 08.

DAY 12

RETURN TO 5300M. SLEEP 5300m

THIS DAY RETURNS TO SPEND A FULL DAY AROUND OUR HIGH POINT WITH A LATE ASCENT OF A FEW HUNDRED METERS TO OUR MAXIMUM ALTITUDE GAINED

DAY 13

STAY AT 5300m. SLEEP 5300m

THIS DAY IS SPENT FULLY AT 5300m, THOUGH IN AS RELAXED A STATE AS POSSIBLE.

DAY 14

RETURN TO 4000m. SLEEP 4000m

RETURNING TO ROAD AND THEN TOWN WE BEGIN THE PHASE OF FULL DECOMPRESSION WHERE WE IMMERSE IN THE OXYGEN-RICH LOWER ALTITUDES BEFORE RELOCATING TO THE COMMITTMENT OF THE KARAKORAM.

TRANSITION

INCREDIBLE INFRASTRUCTURE

HIGHWAYS, BRAND NEW AIRPORTS, REGULAR FLIGHTS AND SMOOTH CONNECTIONS

OPTIMIZE ON THE FULL RECOVERY PHASE

FLYING OVER XINJIANG
XMA XINJIANG MOUNTAINEERING ASSOCIATION CHINA

TIBET TO XINJIANG

FROM OUR HIGH POINT IN EASTERN TIBET WE RETURN TO CHENGDU THEN FLY TO KASHGAR ON A TIMELINE ONLY MODERN CHINA COULD ALLOW. KEEPING ANY CURIOSITY OVER THE EXOTIC CITY OF KASHGAR FOR THE RETURN, WE GET ON CHINA’S OTHER EXAMPLE OF MODERN INFRASTRUCTURE – HIGH SPEED FREEWAYS – TO DRIVE TO THE REMOTE TRAILHEAD FOR THE APPROACH TO K2.

BEING ACCLIMATED, WE CAN APPROACH K2 WITHOUT THE NEED FOR SLOWING OVER THE ARGHIL PASS AND CAMP ON IT TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE RETURN TO ALTITUDE. AFTER ARRIVING AT SUGHET JANGAL WE SPEND ONLY A DAY BEFORE CONTINUING TO BASECAMP AND REGAINING OUR ACCLIMATION THRESHOLD.

DAY 15

RETURN CHENGDU. FULL DAYS REST. SLEEP AT 100m

WAKING AT 5000m, WE RETURN TO TOWN TO SHOWER & EAT BEFORE STARTING THE FULL DAYS TRANSIT BACK TO CHENGDU. THIS DAY IS ALL ABOUT REST, AND WE HAVE AN EASY EVENING IN TOWN THEN A COMFORTABLE NIGHT, READY FOR THE MORNING’S FLIGHT TO XINJIANG.

DAY 16

FLIGHT TO KASHGAR THEN TRANSIT TO TRAILHEAD. CAMP AT TRAILHEAD AT 3500m

THE UNIQUNESS OF CHINA’S SINGLE TIMEZONE MAKE THIS DAY A MEMORABLE ONE. OUR EARLY FLIGHT GETS US INTO KASHGAR WITH PLENTY ON TIME TO CONTINUE OUR TRANSIT TO THE ROAD HEAD. IT IS A LONG DAY THROUGH FASCINATING LANDSCAPES ALONG THE OLD SOUTHERN SILK ROAD THEN OFF TOWARDS THE WILDERNESS OF THE TRANS KARAKORUM TRACT.

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APPROACH

FAST, SMOOTH & STEADY

NO TIME WASTED ON THE PASSES

NO ACCLIMATION LOSS IN THE VALLEYS

GOOD RECOVERY

ARRIVE AHEAD OF THE CURVE

K2 XINJIANG ACCESS
K2 NORTH SIDE RIDGE CLIMBING

DAY 17

APPROACH DAY, APPROX 20km. CAMP AT 4300m

WE COVER LONG BUT EASY MILES THROUGH ALPINE DESERT VALLEYS TOWARDS THE ARGHIL PASS. WHAT IS USUALLY KEPT AT AN INTENTIONALLY SLOW PACE WE CAN COVER WITHOUT MUCH CONCERN BEING BOTH TRULY PRE-ACCLIMATED & HAVING A MINIMAL CARAVAN WITH US.

DAY 18

APPROACH DAY, APPROX 20km TO THE ARGHIL PASS. CAMP AT 4900m.

CROSSING THE ARGHIL PASS IS USUALLY A BIG EVENT, BUT THE VIEWS INTO THE KARAKORUM ARE OFTEN SECONDARY TO THE EFFORT. FOR US, WE GET TO TOP OUT AT THE PASS EASILY, SPEND TIME RESTING AT THE ALTITUDE ENJOYING THE VIEW

DAY 19

SHAKSGAM RIVER VALLEY, APPROX 20km. SLEEP AT 4200m

AN EXCITING WALK ALONG THE SHAKSGAM RIVER’S FLOOD PLAIN, CROSSING THE WIDE BRAIDING OF WATER CHANNELS TO EVENTUALLY ROUNDING THE SPUR INTO THE OUTFLOW OF THE K2 NORTH GLACIER. THIS DAY ONLY HAS A FEW HUNDRED METERS ALTITUDE GAIN OVER IT’S LENGTH, AND THE ARRIVAL AT SUGHET JANGAL BASECAMP IS WELCOMING.

DAY 20

ARRIVE SUGHET JANGAL. HIKE TO 5200m. SLEEP 4200m

THIS DAY IS TO GET READY FOR THE TRIP UP THE GLACIER & TAKE IN A SHORT ACCLIMATION HIKE TO REGAIN 5000m THAT SHOULD BRING IN THE FIRST CLEAR VIEWS OF THE NORTH FACE OF K2 LESS THAN 20km AWAY – STRAIGHT AT THE NORTH RIDGE. POSSIBLE ONLY FOR PRE-ACCLIMATED TEAMS, THIS HIGH POINT IS EASY TO SPEND HOURS AT, ANALYSING & CONTEMPLATING THE NORTH FACE AND THE CLEAR NORTH RIDGE.

DAY 21

CARRY TO BASECAMP, APPROX 15km. SLEEP 5200m

DAY 21 IS WHEN IT ALL GETS REAL AND CARRY UP THE GLACIER ALONG A COURSE THROUGH SCULPTED MORAINE INTO FULL PROXIMITY WITH THE NORTH FACE. INITIAL LOADS ARE FAIRLY LIGHT, AND THE 6% OVERALL RATIO OF ASCENT IS EASY BEING PRE-ACCLIMATED.

THIS IS THE POINT WE REGAIN OUR ACCLIMATION, WITH ENOUGH TO MAKE THE FIRST FORAYS ONTO THE NORTH RIDGE ROUTE BEFORE A DESCENT BACK TO SUGHET JANGAL TO REST AND RESUPPLY.

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DAY 22

BASECAMP. SLEEP 5200m

IT’S REMARKABLE BEING ABLE TO STAND, READY TO CLIMB, AT THE BASE OF A ROUTE LIKE K2’S NORTH RIDGE ONLY 3 WEEKS OUT FROM ARRIVING. THIS SCHEDULE HAS FORTIFIED YOU WITH THE STRONGEST, MOST PROVEN ALTITUDE GAIN PROCESS POSSIBLE, BASED ON AN ACCUMULATIVE NUMBER OF DAYS RESTING & ACTIVE IN OPTIMAL RATIO AT REAL ALTITUDES.

*NOTE THAT THE HOME-BASED SYSTEMS DON’T ACTUALLY PREPARE THE BODY FOR ALTITUDE GAIN BECAUSE THEY DON’T ACTUALLY SIMULATE THE EFFECTS OF ALTITUDE. THESE SYSTEM CLAIM ADAPTIONS BY REDUCING THE OXYGEN CONTENT OF AIR, WHERE ADAPTIONS FROM ACTUAL ALTITUDE RESULT FROM REDUCED AIR PRESSURE. THE MAJORITY OF ADVANTAGES FAST-TRACKED ASCENT PROGRAMS HAVE COME FROM OTHER FACTORS LIKE ULTRA-HIGH FLOW SUPPLEMNTARY OXYGEN & VERY HIGH ASSISTANT-CLIENT RATIOS