KEEPING YOUR FEET

THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS ‘JUST’ FROSTBITE, AND THE HISTORY OF HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING IS THE HISTORY OF LOSING BODY PARTS TO THE EFFECTS OF ALTITUDE AND COLD. READ ANY ACCOUNTS AND MENTION OF FEET GETTING DANGEROUSLY COLD IS ALMOST GUARANTEED, WITH ENOUGH TALES OF BAD OUTCOMES TO MAKE THE POINT.

WITHOUT YOUR FEET YOU ARE FUCKED, AND NOWHERE MORE SO THAN A REMOTE PEAK WHERE EVEN AFTER ANY DESCENT THERE IS STILL MILES OF WALKING OUT. TISSUE LOSS IS NOT SOMETHING THAT IS RECOVERED FROM SIMPLY BY COMING DOWN, AND IT DOESN’T TAKE MUCH FOR THERE TO BE NO RECOVERY AT ALL.

MODERN BOOTS HAVE DONE MUCH TO REDUCE THE CHANCE OF INJURY, BUT BY FAR THE BIGGEST CONTRIBUTION COMES FROM USING OXYGEN. AS THIS IS SOMETHING WE DON’T HAVE ON OUR TRIPS IT MEANS WE NEED OTHER METHODS, STRUNG TOGETHER AS A STRATEGY THAT IS A DISCIPLINE ALL TO ITSELF. THIS IS NOT SOME AFTERTHOUGHT OR SECONDARY FACTOR, BUT SITS FRONT AND CENTER ALONG WITH YOUR SAFETY IN THINGS LIKE ROPEWORK AND FROM AVALANCHES. YOUR STRATEGY FOR NOT LOSING TOES BEGINS AT HOME WITH WHAT YOU BUY, AND CONTINUES THROUGHOUT AN ENTIRE TRIP.

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THE RIGHT SOCKS

SPEND GOOD MONEY ON YOUR CLIMBING SOCKS AND KEEP THEM JUST FOR THAT. THE RIGHT SOCKS FOR STAVING OFF COLD INJURY ARE ONES THAT RETAIN MINIMAL MOISTURE, LET YOUR FEET EXPAND AND SWELL, INTERFACE WELL WITH YOUR LINERS AND ARE EASY TO KEEP CLEAN. THIS OFTEN MEANS SOMETHING SYNTHETIC, AS WOOL FAST BECOMES A MATTED WET POOL THAT STEWS YOUR FEET, AND IS USUALLY NOT TOO THICK AS IT IS YOUR LINERS THAT DO THE INSULATING. TOE SOCKS ARE GOOD FOR KEEPING YOUR DIGITS FROM BECOMING A FROZEN BLOCK, AND THE COMBINATION OF TWO PAIRS OF VARYING TYPES HAS FOUND SUCCESS.

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THE RIGHT BOOTS

BIG PEAKS NEED BIG BOOTS, WHETHER OFF-THE-SHELF VERSIONS OR COMBINATIONS MATCHING UP 8000m AND 6000m SIZED FOR IT. BY FAR THE LINER MATTERS MOST, BUT THE SHELL NEEDS TO MATCH WELL TO IT WITH MINIMAL DEAD AIRSPACE ALL ROUND. GOOD LINERS CONFORM TO THE FOOT TO CREATE AN EFFICIENT WARM AIR SPACE THAT DOESN’T PUMP OUT WITH MOVEMENT, AND THE OUTSIDE DOESN’T COLLECT SNOW AND ICE WHICH CAN BE COMMON WITH OLD BOOTS.

THE RIGHT BOOTS ARE THE COMFORTABLE ONES BECAUSE COMPROMISED MOVEMENT EVEN IN A BOOT HEAVILY INSULATED STILL RESTRICTS BLOODFLOW. MATCHING UP BITS OF DIFFERENT BOOTS CAN PRODUCE THE BEST FOOTWEAR GOING, BUT GETTING IT RIGHT IS NOT SIMPLE AS THERE’S A LOT OF VARIATION BETWEEN BRANDS AND MODELS.

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THE RIGHT LACES

NOTHING EXACERBATES COLD TOES LIKE CRANKING YOUR LACES DOWN AND RESTRICTING BLOOD FLOW, WHICH IS A COMMON THING WITH BOOTS THAT DON’T FIT PROPERLY OR SOCKS THAT ARE NOT MANAGED. THE RIGHT LACES ALLOW YOU TO EASILY ADJUST THINGS AS YOUR FEET CHANGE AND KEEP AN EVEN PRESSURE OVER THE FOOT, AND HAVE A LITTLE BIT OF GIVE THAT LETS THE BOOT MOVE WITH THE FOOT RATHER THAN FIGHT AGAINST IT.

LACES THAT DON’T WORK WELL CAN USUALLY BE SWAPPED OUT, INCLUDING MECHANICAL BOAS AND SPEED LACES. VELCRO STRAPS, A COMMON CAUSE OF PROBLEMS, CAN BE RESEWN, AND ATTENTION NEEDS TO GO TO REMOVING ANYTHING THAT RUBS FROM INSIDE AND RISKS PUTTING HOLES IN THE SHELL.

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THE RIGHT APPROACH SHOES

TOO MANY CLIMBERS HAVE THEIR FEET COMPROMISED WELL BEFORE ANY CLIMBING, BY APPROACHING IN STUFF THAT RESTRICTS AND COOLS THEIR FEET FOR THE LONG DAYS ON THE TRAIL. THE ANSWER IS SIMPLY TO WEAR WHAT IS COMFORTABLE AND LETS THE FEET EXPAND AND STAY DRY, INSTEAD OF CHOOSING COOL ‘APPROACH BOOTS’ BASED ON MARKETING. AVOID LEATHER THAT GETS WET AND STAYS SO, AND ANY SORT OF APPROACH SHOE THAT IS MADE FOR WALKING IN TO CRAG IN THE SUMMER AND WILL CLIMB INTO THE MIDDLE GRADES. YOU WANT SOMETHING THAT IS LIGHT AND MID WEIGHT SOCKS THAT FEEL GOOD, SO YOUR TOES ARE IN AS GOOD CONDITION AS POSSIBLE WHEN THE TIME FOR BIG BOOTS COMES. OPTIONS RANGE FROM SUMMER ALPINE BOOTS THROUGH TO THE FAT HOKA STYLE DESIGNS WITH ULTRA SOLES, AND SHOULD BE CHOSEN MORE LIKE MARATHON SHOES THAN LIKE ANYTHING FOR CLIMBING.

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THE RIGHT TROUSERS

WARM LEGS GO A LONG WAY TOWARDS WARM FEET, AND HANGING AROUND SHIVERING IN SHELL PANTS IS A SIGN SOMETHING IS WRONG. UP AT ALTITUDE INSULATED PANTS SHOULD BE AS COMMON AS INSULATED JACKETS BECAUSE HEAT LOSS THROUGH THE LEGS IS MASSIVE, AND PUFFY PANTS SHOULD BE AS CLOSE TO HAND AS INSULATION FOR YOUR TOP HALF.

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DOWN SOCKS

DOWN SOCKS ARE THE FRONTLINE FOR KEEPING YOUR FEET WARM, AS THE HABITABLE SPACE BETWEEN BEING BOOTS AND JUST SOCKS IN YOUR SLEEPING BAG. THEY KEEP A MICRO CLIMATE AROUND YOU FEET AND ALLOW YOU TO HAPPILY CHANGE SOCKS, AND WHEN PRE WARMED INSIDE YOUR JACKET CAN BE AN IMMEDIATE RESPONSE TO THE START OF COLD INJURY.

GOOD DOWN SOCKS HAVE ENOUGH ROOM TO SLIDE A FLASK OF HOT WATER INTO, THEN CRUSH DOWN SMALL TO STAY INSIDE YOUR LAYERS THROUGHOUT THE DAY. THIS MEANS A VERY HIGH QUALITY OF DOWN SO THEY COMPRESS SMALL, THEN SPRING INTO LOFT AS SOON AS YOU JUMP IN THE TENT TO GET WARM.

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SLEEPING

IT IS ALWAYS THE SMALL HOURS WHEN COLD HITS YOUR FEET, WHEN METABOLISM IS SLOWEST AND YOU HAVE SPENT HOURS LAYING FLAT. A GOOD SYSTEM IS TO HAVE TWO LAYERS OF SLEEPING PAD, WITH ONE A LITTLE SHORTER SO YOU FEET HANG OFF THE END. YOU FEET WILL BE BETTER INSULATED HANGING IN SPACE SURROUNDED BY DOWN SOCKS AND YOUR SLEEPING BAG, RATHER THAN COMPRESSED AGAINST A SURFACE EVEN IF IT’S MADE UP OF TWO MATS.

NEVER SLEEP WITH YOUR FEET HIGHER THAN THE REST OF YOU, AND TRY TO INSULATE THEM FROM THE END OF THE TENT AS WELL AS THE GROUND. IF YOU WAKE UP COLD, SORT THEM OUT WITH MOVEMENT AND EATING AND IDEALLY A HOT WATER BOTTLE.

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ROUTINE

NEVER LET YOUR BOOTS SIT OUTSIDE AND FREEZE, OR COLLECT ICE OVER DAYS. MAKE IT A ROUTINE TO BRUSH AND SCRAP SNOW AND ICE OFF WHEN YOU ENTER A TENT, THEN STASH YOUR BOOT SHELLS SOMEWHERE THEY CAN GET A BIT OF WARMTH FROM THE STOVE, AND BE EASY TO REACH IN THE MORNING TO WARM UP BEFORE PUTTING ON.

NEVER PUT CHILLED BOOTS ONTO ALREADY COLD FEET, AS EVEN WITH LINERS ANY HEAT WILL BE SUCKED AWAY FAST. THE NUMBER ONE THING YOU CAN DO TO WARD OFF FROSTBITE IS TO WARM YOUR BOOTS BEFORE PUTTING THEM ON, THEN STEP OUTSIDE AND GET ON WITH THINGS TO KEEP YOUR METABOLISM UP.

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DRY

A GOOD ROUTINE OF GETTING INTO DOWN SOCKS, GETTING WARM, HAVING THE FOOT END OF YOUR SLEEPING BAG SORTED AND HAVING GOOD SOCKS, WILL KEEP YOUR FEET DRY FOR A FEW DAYS BETWEN SWAPPING OUT SOCKS. EATING WELL AND WARMING THE TENT WILL MAKE THE MICRO CLIMATE THAT WARMS YOUR FEET TO PUSH MOISTURE OUT, AND SWAPPING SOCKS BEFORE THEY TOTALLY COMPRESS AND DAMPEN IS FAR EASIER THAN TRYING TO RESUSCITATE ONES THAT ARE ALREADY GONE.

GETTING MOISTURE OFF YOUR FEET IS AS EASY AS CARRYING 2 OR 3 EXTRA SQUARES OF TOILET PAPER (NEVER, EVER ALCOHOL WIPES UP HIGH)

A LOT OF MOISTURE GETS TRAPPED INSIDE LINERS SO THEY NEED DRYING, USUALLY BY BODY HEAT INSIDE YOUR SLEEPING BAG AND BEING HELD OVER THE STOVE. IF YOUR FEET ARE WARM ALREADY THEN WEARING THEM OPEN WORKS, SOMETHING MUCH EASIER WITH ZIP OR LACE TYPES THAN VELCRO OR PULL ON.

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CLEAN

CLEAN FEET KEEP YOUR SOCKS IN GOOD CONDITION LONGER, KEEPING THEIR WEAVE FROM MATTING AND SOAKING OUT WITH THE FILTH AND GRIME OF DAYS ON END IN BOOTS. THIS IS A PROCESS BEST STARTED ON THE APPROACH, WHERE DUST, MUD, WATER AND SWEAT ARE MORE COMMON THAN THE CRYOGENIC ENVIRONMENT OF THE CLIMB, WITH APPROACH SOCKS BEING THEIR OWN THING THAT GET LEFT WITH APPROACH SHOES.

IN CAMPS WHERE YOU GET SUN AND HAVE TIME TO DO THINGS WELL, ALCOHOL WIPES AND SOAP WILL KEEP YOUR FEET IN CONDITION FOR A WHOLE TRIP. MAKE THIS A PRIORITY, TO BE DONE AT THE WARMEST TIME OF THE DAY. WASHING SOCKS IS A LUXURY THAT GOES WITH DRYING THEM IN THE HIGH UV AND LOW HUMIDITY OF ALTITUDE, AND A CYCLE OF ‘FEET DAYS’ MAKES GOOD USE OF DOWN TIME BETWEEN ASCENTS.

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MASSAGE

LONG DAYS IN STIFF BOOTS DAMAGE MANY A CLIMBERS FEET, LOSING TOENAILS AND COMPRESSING FASCIA AND DISTORTING NATURAL FOOT SHAPE. A SINGLE NIGHT WON’T FIX WHAT THE DAY DOES, SO MANIPULATING YOUR FEETS BLOOD FLOW HELPS RELAX MUSCLES CONTORTED AND CHILLED OUT OF SHAPE. PAY ATTENTION TO TOES AS INDIVIDUAL CONDITION CAN BE OVERLOOKED. ROLLING THE ANKLE JOINT AND FLEXING THE FOREFOOT AND ARCH HELPS ALL THE ARTERIES THAT CARRY BLOOD TO THE TOES, AND SHAKING THE FOOT OUT VENTS TENSION THAT COMES FROM BOOTS THAT DON’T FLEX.

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WATER BOTTLES

SILICONE FLASKS FILLED WITH HOT WATER THEN PLACED INSIDE DOWN SOCKS WITH YOUR FEET NOT ONLY SOUNDS LIKE A LUXURY BUT IS A MEASURE FOR EMERGENCY USE. OTHER BOTTLES PLACED BETWEEN YOUR LEGS AND INSIDE YOUR JACKET CREATE A GLOBAL HEAT SYSTEM, THAT KEEPS YOU UP ON THE ROUTE LONGER AND MAY WELL SAVE YOUR LIFE.

NOT ANY BOTTLE WILL WORK, OF COURSE NEEDING A RELIABLE SCREW ON LID TO AVOID LEAKING, BUT ALSO BEING A GOOD SHAPE TO FIT INSIDE YOUR LAYERS. THE SKINNY HALF LITER FLASKS WORK WELL AS THEY SLIDE EASILY WHERE NEEDED, BUT NEED FULL COVER CAPS AS THE SQUEEZE TOPS ARE OBVIOUSLY A BAD IDEA INSIDE A SLEEPING BAG.

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WHEN THINGS GO TOO FAR

IF YOU LOSE PRECISION IN YOUR FEET IT’S TIME TO STOP AND ADDRESS THEM, BECAUSE ALL YOUR OTHER METHODS ARE CLEARLY NOT WORKING, AND BEYOND A POINT THEY WILL NOT BE REWARMING WITHOUT DIRECT INTERVENTION. FEET THAT ARE COLD BUT YOU CAN STILL FEEL YOUR TOES MOVING IS THE FIRST STAGE, BUT FEET THAT FEEL WOODEN IS A STAGE TOO FAR AND THEY NEED TO BE CHECKED FOR COLOUR AND RESPONSE BEFORE GOING HIGHER.

FEET THAT HAVE GONE WAXY AND DON’T COLOUR OR SPRING BACK WHEN PRESSED WILL TAKE HOURS TO REWARM, AND NEED A MIX OF SURROUNDING WARMTH, MASSAGE, MOVEMENT, CALORIES AND WARM INTERFACING SO HEAT GOES IN AND NOT AWAY. DON’T APPLY DIRECT HEAT THAT IS TOO MUCH FOR YOUR HANDS, INSTEAD COVER WATERBOTTLES IN SOMETHING, AND TRAP INSIDE AN INSULATED SPACE LIKE BEING WRAPPED INSIDE A JACKET OR SLEEPING BAG. OUTSIDE OF CIVILIZATION WARM WATER CAN BE A BAD IDEA, AS TOO HOT CAN DO MORE DAMAGE AND TOO COOL COOLS TOO FAST RISKING CHILLING WHEN THE FOOT IS REMOVED TO BE DRIED.

WHITE AND WAXY CAN USUALLY BE REVIVED AND STAY ON THE MOUNTAIN, BUT DARKENING INDICATES INTERNAL BLEEDING FROM DAMAGED TISSUE AND BLISTERS ARE FROM SKIN THAT HAS HAD ITS CELLS FROZEN AND RUPTURED. LIKE A FROZEN STRAWBERRY NEVER RETURNING TO IT’S FRESH SHAPE BECAUSE THE CELLS HAVE BROKEN AND LEAKED, TISSUE THAT HAS FROZEN LOSES STRUCTURE, THOUGH NERVES MAY SURVIVE, AND YOU WILL KNOW IT IF SO. WARMING IN THIS CASE IS TO LIMIT THE EXTENT OF DAMAGE BY NOT ALLOWING MORE, AND NEEDS DESCENT TO A WARMER, MORE OXYGEN RICH ENVIRONMENT THAN THE ONE THAT DID THE DAMAGE.

DAMAGED FEET NEED MEDICAL ATTENTION, AND NEED CARE TO AVOID FURTHER COMPRESSION OR TRAUMA TO ALREADY RUPTURED CELLS. THIS MAY MEAN CARE FOR INFECTION, BANDAGING AND FOOTWEAR THAT AVOIDS COMPRESSION. EVEN SLIGHT DAMAGE, ie ‘FROST NIP’, WILL BENEFIT FROM SHOES THAT ALLOW THE FEET TO SWELL AND BE CUSHIONED, ALL THE MORE REASON TO HAVE SOMETHING LIKE ULTRA SHOES FOR THE LONG HOURS HOME ON THE PLANE.

NERVE DAMAGE CAN TAKE MONTHS OR YEARS TO REPAIR, BUT CAN FEET CAN FUNCTION AS NORMAL DESPITE BEING NUMB. THE OTHER SIDE OF THIS IS THAT YOU ARE DULLED TO FUTURE COLD SO RUN A HIGHER RISK OF MORE DAMAGE, AND MAY NEED TO REASSESS FOOTWEAR TO COMPENSATE.

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ON RETURNING TO CIVILIZATION ASSESS YOUR ENTIRE FOOT-SYSTEM, AND THINK WHAT WORKED, WHAT DIDN’T AND WHAT CAN BE EVOLVED. DAMAGED FEET NEED TIME AND RECUPERATION, WHICH CAN BE HARD DURING CLIMBING SEASONS, AND MAY MEAN SUCKING UP LOOKING LIKE AN OVERDRESSED WANKER IF YOU WEAR DISPROPORTIONATELY BIG BOOTS FOR LOCAL ICEFALLS RATHER THAN RUN THE RISK OF FURTHER DAMAGE.