FINDING THE RAT
THE STUFF OTHER COMPANIES AREN’T TELLING YOU ABOUT
THE WILDEST PEAKS ON EARTH
UNTOUCHED 8000m CLIMBING
THOUSANDS OF QUIET PEAKS
OIERLIZUOKE 6700m, AKSAI QIN, 2024. WHERE CELCIUS & FARENHEIT MEET.
IN 2024 FEEDING THE RAT EXPEDITIONS OBTAINED THE FIRST PERMITS TO THE NORTH SIDE OF THE K2 MASSIF SINCE 2011, INCLUDING THE NORTH SIDE OF K2 ITSELF. THE OBJECTIVES WERE A +6500m FIRST ASCENT, OBSERVATIONS OF GLACIAL CHANGES OVER THE PAST DECADE, RECCE OF THE NORTHERN CHINA SIDE OF K2 IN EARLY WINTER CONDITIONS, AND A BRIEF VISIT TO THE CHINA SIDE OF THE GASHERBRUMS.
THIS IS NOT WHAT HAPPENED.
Read moreEXPEDITIONS TO PLACES THAT DON’T EXIST*
WE BARTERED OUR SOULS AT THE CROSS ROADS OF TURKESTAN AND TIBET A LONG TIME AGO, IN EXCHANGE FOR GAINING ACCESS TO THE LARGEST COLLECTION OF UNCLIMBED HIGH ALTITUDE PEAKS ON EARTH. WE WILLINGLY HANDED OVER ANY PLACE IN THE COMMERCIAL CLIMBING INDUSTRY, TO HAVE PERMISSION TO PLACES FAMOUS FOR BEING KNOWN AS FORBIDDEN
Read moreThat’s why I like feeding the rat. It’s a sort of annual check-up on myself. The rat is you, really. It’s the other you, and it’s being fed by the you that you think you are. And they are often very different people. But when they come close to each other, that’s smashing, that is. Then the rat’s had a good meal and you come away feeling terrific. It’s a fairly rare thing, but you have to keep feeding the brute, just for your own peace of mind. And even if you did blow it, at least there wouldn’t be that great unknown.