WE’VE DONE IT. WE’VE SEEN OTHERS DO IT. FROM 8000m PEAKS TO 5000m BIG WALLS WE’VE SEEN CLIMBERS TURN AROUND SHORT OF THEIR OBJECTIVES. EVERY TIME WE ARE INVOLVED THERE FOLLOWS INTENSE SCRUTINY OF THE HOWS, WHYS, WHAT IFS & MAYBES, AND OVER THE YEARS WE’VE SEEN SOME TRENDS
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1) THE WEATHER
WE’D LIKE TO HAVE A SOLUTION TO THIS BUT BEYOND A CERTAIN POINT NO ONE DOES. THERE’S A DEGREE TO WHICH YOU CAN GEAR UP FOR IT, WAIT IT OUT & PLAN TO AVOID IT BEING SHUT DOWN BY WEATHER AND THE RISKS IT INDUCES IS THE OLDEST REASON TO TURN AROUND THAT EXISTS – WITH PLENTY OF STORIES OF CLIMBERS WHO SHOULD HAVE BUT DIDN’T.
OUR ADVICE HERE IS TO LIMIT THE EFFECTS OF BAD WEATHER WITH A CONTINGENCY PLAN THAT HAS MORE OPTIONS THAN 100% WITHDRAWAL. BE PREPARED TO SIT THINGS OUT, UNDERSTAND THAT AT SOME POINT IT WILL PASS, HAVE AN IDEA OF WHAT TO EXPECT SO YOU DON’T JUST SIT THERE DEVOID OF A PLAN. WEATHER DATA TODAY IS INCREDIBLY ACCESSIBLE – FOR FREE WHAT A DECADE AGO COST A SOLID AMOUNT – SO STUDY WHAT YOU CAN, RECORD WHAT YOU FIND, AND MAKE THE BEST CHOICES YOU HAVE AVAILABLE.
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2) STRESS
BIG TRIPS HAVE LOTS OF THINGS THAT CAN CHANGE, BE CONFRONTING AND ARE UNPREDICTABLE, AND UNTIL YOU GET INTO THE SWING OF THAT AS BEING NORMAL, THINGS CAN FEEL STRESSFUL. WE’VE SEEN TRIPS FALL APART BECAUSE UNPLANNED EVENTS ESCALATED PEOPLES IDEAS ABOUT WHAT SHOULD BE HAPPENING BUT ISN’T, AND EVENTUALLY SOMETHING HAS TO GIVE. WE THINK THE STRESS OF EXPEDITIONS CAN OFTEN BE PREPARED FOR, SO WHEN IT ARISES THERE’S WAYS TO REFERENCE IT AND THINGS DON’T BECOME A DEAD-END OR SPIRAL OF IDEAS NO ONE WANTS.
EXPEDITIONS ARE NOT LIKE THEY APPEAR ON INSTAGRAM, WITH SMILING FACES GIVING THE THIMBS UP FROM SUMMITS, TENTS, TEMPLES & TRAILS. EXPECTING THAT IS SETTING YOURSELF UP TO BE CONFRONTED BY OFTEN SHARP REALITIES. STRESS OFTEN ARISES BECAUSE THE THINGS AN EXPEDITION WANTS TO ACHEIVE CAN BE GROUND DOWN BY THE REALITIES OF REMOTE PLACES & ABSENCE OF RESOURCES – SO PREPARE FOR THAT. KNOW WHAT YOU NEED TO DO, HOW FAST YOU NEED TO DO IT AND STRATEGIES FOR WHEN THINGS GET OFF THE RAILS. DON’T EXPECT TO FEEL LIKE YOU’RE LIVING IN A RED BULL COMMERCIAL OR NORTH FACE FILM MUCH OF THE TIME, LEARN TO TAKE PLEASURE IN THE FACT YOU ARE OUTSIDE YOUR NORMS – AND THE STRESS IS AN INDICATOR OF THAT.
REINTERPRETED, STRESS IS YOU TRYING TO ADJUST, AND IF OTHERS CAN YOU CAN TOO. IT’S USUALLY RELATIVE TO THE AMOUNT OF YOUR EXPECTATIONS YOU’RE WILLING TO GIVE UP. THE UNKNOWNS, THE HOLD UPS, THE FAILINGS, THE TIMELINES, THE WEIRDNESS – THIS IS WHAT REAL EXPEDITIONS CONSIST OF. PLAN FOR IT, EDUCATE YOURSELF ON IT, HAVE OPTIONS & PLAN B’S, KEEP IT SEPARATE FROM THE MAIN OBJECTIVE.
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3) FAILED ACCLIMATION STRATEGIES
THIS IS A HUGE ONE BECAUSE EVERYONE THINKS THEY HAVE A SPECIAL TRICK. AND MAYBE THEY DO, BUT IN SMALL TEAMS ALL IT TAKES IS ONE CLIMBER TO GET THE TRICK WRONG AND THINGS CHANGE BIG TIME. BOTTOM LINE; ACCLIMATION HAS NO TRICKS, YOUR BODY SIMPLY NEEDS TO ADAPT. YES THERE ARE WAYS TO OPTIMIZE THIS, AND THERE ARE WAYS TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF IT, BUT YOU JUST NEED ADJUST. HEADING OFF WITH THE LATEST UNTESTED THEORY OR A SCHEDULE SO REFINED IT HAS NO ROOM FOR WIGGLES IS FOLLY AND A LOT TO RISK AN EXPENSIVE TRIP ON. THE FINEST ASCENTS OF OUR TIME HAVE BEEN BASED ON SOLID TIME PROGRESSIVELY AT ALTITUDE & LOOPING THROUGH REST PHASES. NO SPECIAL TEAS, OR TRAINING WITH MASKS, OR MICRO-INCREMENTS TAKE THE PLACE OF MOVING & SLEEPING HIGHER.
THIS IS WHY OUR ‘SPECIAL’ PRE-ACCLIMATION ITINERARY CONSISTS OF NOTHING MORE THAN A STANDARD ASCENT SCHEDULE TO ABOVE 5000m, MADE SPECIAL BY THE WAY WE ARRANGE IT AND THE LOGISTICS WE USE, BASED ON DECADES OF DOING IT IN TIBET. THE RESULT IS AT THE END OF THAT PROCESS YOU KNOW 100% WHAT ALTITUDE YOU ARE ACCLIMATED TO BECAUSE YOU’VE BEEN THERE. THE EFFECT THIS HAS WHEN IT COMES TO THE CLIMBING IS UNPARALLELED WHEN IT COMES TO SUCCESS ON THE ROUTE.
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4) FAILED NUTRITION
THIS IS PROBABLY THE ROOT OF MORE TURN-AROUNDS THAN ANY OTHER, EITHER DIRECTLY OR NOT. NOT EATING OR EATING BAD CHOICES WORKS IT’S WAY INTO OTHER FACTORS AND CAN MAKE A TOLERABLE MENTAL MATTER A GAME-ENDING PHYSICAL ONE. EXPEDITIONS HAVE 3 TYPES OF EATING; EATING WHEN IT’S FUN, EATING WHEN IT’S NORMAL, EATING WHEN IT’S NECESSARY. GET THEM IN THE RIGHT ORDER AND YOU HAVE MARGIN FOR STAYING IN THE GAME; GET THEM OUT OF WHACK AND IT CAN BE IMPOSSIBLE TO REPAIR.
FUN EATING IS THE SOCIAL, CULTURAL & RELAXING EATING YOU’LL DO FOR 75% OF THE TIME ON APPROACHES, DURING TRANSIT, AT BASECAMP etc. THIS IS WHERE THE BULK OF YOUR KCALS WILL COME FROM AND WHAT SETS YOU UP FOR THE REST. GO WITH IT BY MAKING MEALS FUN, WITH APPETISING THINGS TO EAT AND A GOOD VIBE. BASECAMPS IN CHINA ARE REKNOWNED FOR BEING THE HEART OF THE TRIP, WITH A BIG CULTURAL EMPHASIS ON GOOD TIMES.
NORMAL EATING IS EVERYTHING DURING THE ASCENT BELOW THE SUMMIT PARTS WHEN FOOD MAY NOT BE EASY. THIS MEANS COOKING STUFF YOU LIKE IN YOUR TENT, CARRYING SNACKS YOU LIKE IN YOUR POCKETS & EATING TO STAY CLEAR OF HUNGER. THE KEY HERE – LIKE IN ANY HEALTHY DIET – IS TO EAT WHAT WORKS FOR YOU, NOT WHAT YOUR SHOULD EAT. MANY CLIMBERS SHOW UP WITH THE LATEST GIMMICKY ‘PERFORMANCE FOOD’ ONLY TO FIND IT DOESN’T DO WHAT IT SAYS, AND WISH THEY HAD SNICKERS BARS & MILO LIKE THEIR FRIENDS. 2000KCALS OF FOOD YOU WILL EAT IS BETTER THAN 2000KCALS OF STUFF THAT YOU AVOID, AND IF THAT’S PEPERONI, CROISSANTS, MUESLI FOR DINNER & A JAR OF PEANUT BUTTER WITH A SPOON THEN DO IT. THE CLIMBER WHO GETS IT RIGHT CAN MAINTAIN THIS AND FORGO THE THIRD OPTION.
EATING WHEN IT’S NECESSARY IS WHEN YOUR BODY SAYS NO BUT YOUR BRAIN SAYS YOU MUST. IT’S SOMETIMES AVOIDABLE, AND OFTEN DOABLE WHEN YOU HAVE TO, BUT HAVING TO SHOVEL DOWN FOOD AGAINST YOUR WILL ISN’T FUN. EVERY CLIMBER MUST BE PREPARED FOR THIS, AND THE ANSWERS ARE; FOOD THAT’S EASY, FOOD THAT’S IN SMALL AMOUNTS, FOOD THAT YOU KNOW YOU LIKE ALREADY, FOOD THAT GIVES YOU SOMETHING. GET IT RIGHT AND EVEN JUST THE ACT OF EATING A FEW SMALL BITES DOES WONDERS. THE LIST OF THINGS THAT WORK IS BIZARRE AND INTRIGUING; STICKS OF BUTTER, PLAIN RICE, CHEEZELS, SHORTBREAD, CREAM CHEESE – VIRTUALLY ANYTHING OTHER THAN FANCY SPORTS BARS AND GELS.
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5) FEAR
THERE’S A LOT TO BE SCARED OF IN HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING – IF YOU LOOK AT IT A CERTAIN WAY. USUALLY FEAR COMES WITH A SENSE OF A LOSS OF CONTROL AND/OR A PROCESS OF CATASTROPHIC THINKING THAT SPIRALS OUT OF A CLIMBERS GRASP. WE DON’T MAKE LIGHT OF THIS, AND AFTER LOTS OF SCENARIOS WHERE REAL FEAR HAS BEEN PRESENT WE HAVE STRATEGIES FOR DEALING WITH IT.
THE SECRET IS, ALL CLIMBERS EXPERIENCE FEAR, AND THE WAY THEY DEAL WITH IT TO KEEP GOING IS THROUGH UNDERSTANDING, AND THAT CAN’T BE DONE IN THE GRIPS OF IT. ALMOST EVERY SITUATION HAS AN OPTION TO PULL BACK FROM THE EDGE, LOOK AT WHAT’S HAPPENING, AND FORM A PLAN TO DEAL WITH IT. ONCE MOTION CEASES, THE TUNNEL OF FEAR OPENS AGAIN AND THE SENSE OF ALL THINGS GOING BAD LIFTS. STARING UP INTO MILES OF ROCK AND ICE, AVALANCHES AT NIGHT, BEING STUCK IN STORMS, HAVING YOUR DESCENT GO WRONG, RUNNING LOW ON GEAR, THE MILLION OTHER FEAR-INDUCING SCENARIOS THAT CHILLING EVEN JUST TO WRITE ABOUT – WHEN YOU HAVE A WAY OF ADDRESSING YOUR REACTIONS THAT WORKS, THESE THINGS GO BACK TO BEING PART OF THE GAME.
THIS DOESN’T MEAN THERE AREN’T GENUINELY FRIGHTENEING THINGS THAT CAN HAPPEN. WHAT IT MEANS IS YOU CAN REMAIN FUNCTIONAL AND MAKE DECISIONS IF THEY DO, BECAUSE THE OPPOSITE IS TO EXACERBATE THE SITUATION. OFTEN THIS IS ONLY A MATTER OF INTRODUCING FEAR-MANAGEMENT METHODS TO YOUR SYSTEM, AND KNOWING YOU CAN USE THEM WHEN CALLED UPON. THE POINT IS ENGAGE THE FEAR MECHANISM BEFORE IT STARTS TO SQUEEZE OFF CLEAR THINKING.
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6) LACK OF CLIMBING SKILL
REALLY, MOST HIGH ALTITUDE ASCENTS ARE DONE AT DIFFICULTY LEVELS THAT WOULD BE EASY WITHOUT THE ALTITUDE & TRAPPINGS OF A REMOTE EXPEDITION AROUND IT, WHICH PRETTY MUCH MEANS THERE’S NO EXCUSE TO NOT HAVE THE BASICS DOWN. OF COURSE HARD IS STILL HARD, AND THE TECHNICAL ABILITY OF A ROUTE CAN BE LIMITLESS, BUT IF YOU’RE THROWING DOWN CASH FOR SOMETHING IN TIBET OR THE KARAKORAM YOU OWE IT TO YOURSELF (AND THE TEAM) TO KNOW HOW THE BASICS WORK.
LEARN TO BANG IN PITONS. LEARN HOW TO DRYTOOL. LEARN HOW TO MAKE V-THREADS. LEARN HOW TO USE AIDERS. LEARN HOW TO CHOP A LEDGE. LEARN HOW TO SIMU-CLIMB. NONE OF THIS IS BRAIN SURGERY – AND ALL OF IT IS FUN. THE GOAL HERE ISN’T NECESSARILY TO BE THE GREATEST CLIMBER, THE GOAL IS TO ENJOY BEING PART OF THE TEAMS PROGRESS RATHER THAN A PASSENGER, TO TAKE YOUR TURN ON LEAD, TO FOLLOW AT A GOOD PACE, TO BE PART OF THE CONVERSATION. LOTS OF PLACES RUN COURSES AND FEEDING THE RAT EXPEDITIONS DOES SPECIFIC TRIPS TO UPSKILL FOR BIGGER THINGS. BOOK IN AND DO IT.
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7) POOR STRATEGY
IT’S ONE THING TO GET IT WRONG, BUT IT’S ANOTHER TO NOT EVEN KNOW YOU’RE GETTING IT WRONG. BACKGROUNDS IN ASCENTS THAT ARE COVERED INCH BY INCH IN GUIDEBOOKS, ONLY CLIMBING IN FAIR-WEATHER CONDITIONS, ONLY EVER HAVING BEEN GUIDED – THESE THINGS ARE FINE IF YOU STICK TO THE TRADE ROUTES BUT NEED DEVELOPING IF YOU’RE GOING TO TAKE ON SOMETHING LIKE K2’S NORTH RIDGE. GOOD STRATEGIES ARE MADE BY MATCHING RESEARCH WITH EXPERIENCE AND THE ABILITY TO CUT THROUGH THE VARIABLES. AS MANY TRIPS HAVE RUN OUT OF IDEAS AS HAVE GOT MIRED IN TOO MANY CHOICES – THE GOAL IS TO GET THINGS IN MOTION, NOT DREAM UP POSSIBILITIES.
90% OF THE TIME A GOOD STRATEGY IS ONE THAT KEEPS A SET OF OPTIONS OPEN. ANY PLAN THAT HINGES ON A SINGLE FACTOR IS ASKING FOR PROBLEMS. SECOND, THIRD AND FOURTH CONTINGENCIES CAN HAVE MORE LIMITED ARCS OF OPPORTUNITY AS YOU GET FURTHER INTO CONTINGENCY IF IT HAPPENS, BUT THE GENERAL GIST OF A PLAN NEEDS TO BE DIRECTLY ON TRACK.
THINKING YOU WILL FORM A STRATEGY FROM THE TRAILHEAD IS ALWAYS A BAD IDEA, IT’S SOMETHING THAT NEEDS TO BEGIN AT HOME WHERE YOU HAVE ACCESS TO THE RESOURCES AND TIME TO GET A BIG PICTURE. THINGS DON’T NEED TO BE WORKED OUT TO THE MILIMETER, BUT BASICS LIKE THE MAIN TOPOGRAPHICAL FEATURES, ALTITUDES, CLIMATE & TEAM CAPACITY etc NEED TO BE IN YOUR HEAD.
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TICKING ALL THESE THINGS OFF DOESN’T MEAN THINGS WON’T ARISE THAT TURN YOU AROUND, BUT IT MEANS YOU CAN CONFRONT THINGS WITH A THREE DIMENSIONAL PERSPECTIVE THAT COVERS THE BIG PICTURE. TURNING AROUND IS FINE AND AN IMPORTANT PART OF CLIMBING, BUT YOU WANT TO GET THE MOST FROM THE EXPERIENCE AS POSSIBLE RATHER THAN JUST WALK AWAY.