PART OF THE ALPINE FANTASY IS SLEEPING TIED IN ON A LEDGE FAR UP THE SIDE OF A MOUNTAIN. THIS FAST BECOMES SOMETHING BORDERING ON A NIGHTMARE IN THE GRIM LIGHT OF REALITY, SOMETHING MEASURED BY IT’S OWN METRIC – THE FOWLER BIVY SCALE (ATTRIBUTED TO EITHER MICK OR CHARLIE, EITHER QUALIFY) – OF 0 TO 5 WITH THE CLOSER YOU ARE TO 5 THE MORE IT’S JUST CAMPING.
ANYTHING LOWER THAN ABOUT A 3 ON THE SCALE IS WHERE YOU NEED TO TIE IN, THE OBVIOUS BEING THERE’S A RISK OF FALLING OR BEING SWEPT AWAY DURING THE NIGHT. IT COULD BE INSIDE A TENT, ITSELF TIED INTO THE MOUNTAIN, OR CLIPPED INTO AN ANCHOR ON AN OPEN BIVY. IN SUMMER IT’S NOT MUCH OF A PROBLEM, BUT WHEN THINGS GET COLD AND YOU NEED YOU SLEEPING BAG TO PERFORM, HAVING ROPE RUNNING THROUGH THE HOOD OR THROUGH AN OPENING IN THE ZIP COMPROMISES A LOT OF BOTH YOUR INSULATION AND SLEEP. SOME SLEEPING BAGS ARE MADE SO YOU CAN MAKE A GAP IN THE ZIP – A GOOD IDEA IN THE DESIGN ROOM BUT NOT ON A COLD DARK LEDGE. THE CHANCES OF THE ZIP, YOU, YOUR HARNESS AND THE ANCHOR LINING UP HOW YOU WANT IT IS SLIM, AND THE IDEA OF A GAP IN THE ZIP WHILST THE SPINDRIFT SWIRLS IN AN ICY WIND SHOWS THIS IS A GIMMICK. THE VERY RARE SLEEPING BAG CAN BE FOUND WITH A CLIP IN LOOP, BUT AGAIN, IS BEING WHERE YOU WANT IT IS UNLIKELY BUT IT SHOWS A DESIGNER SOMEWHERE IS THINKING ABOUT THE VERY REAL PROBLEM.
THE METHOD WE USE IS SOMETHING WE PICKED UP FROM SEEING USED BY BOTH EASTERN EUROPEAN AND JAPANESE CLIMBERS AND HAS AN ELEGANCE AND SIMPLICITY THAT MAKES IT WORTH SHARING HERE. IT USES A MINIMUM OF GEAR, IS FAST TO RIG, BARELY COMPROMISES YOUR BAGS INSULATION AND IS ADAPTABLE. IT WORK TO THE DEGREE THAT ANYONE DESIGNING SOME OTHER SOLUTION PROBABLY SHOULDN’T BOTHER.
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1) TIE A BIG LUMP OF A KNOT INTO THE END OF A 60cm SLING. THE BIGGER THE BETTER AND SOMETHING THAT CANNOT PULL THROUGH. LARK’S FOOT IT INTO THE BELAY LOOP OF YOUR HARNESS WHICH YOU WILL SLEEP IN.
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2) FROM THE INSIDE, PUSH THE KNOT INTO THE WALL OF YOUR SLEEPING BAG AND PINCH IT OFF AROUND THE BASE OF THE KNOT.
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3) FROM THE OUTSIDE OF THE BAG, CLOVE HITCH A SLING (IDEALLY A THINNER ONE) AROUND THE PINCH BELOW THE KNOT. CLIP THE OTHER END OF THE SLING INTO THE CHAIN OF PROTECTION.
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NONE OF THIS IS ROCKET SURGERY BUT IT’S ELEGANCE IS IN WHAT IT LEAVES OUT. UNLIKE ANOTHER VERSION WHICH USES A LARGE HEX IT DOESN’T HAVE ANY RIGID METAL PARTS THAT ARE BOTH UNCOMFORTABLE AND CONDUCT COLD, BUT THAT ALSO RISK PUTTING A HOLE IN YOUR BAG AND THE SIMPLE MATTER OF NEEDING A LARGE HEX TO MAKE WORK (THE ISSUES OF USING A LARGE CAM ARE SELF-EVIDENT). THIS METHOD WORKS FINE TOO WITH A BIVY BAG, SOMETHING THAT PROBABLY WON’T WITH ANY OTHER METHOD.
INSIDE YOUR BAG THERE IS ONLY ONE MOVING PART AND IT’S A SOFT SLING AT THAT. MAKE SURE THE SLING IS LONG ENOUGH TO LET YOU MOVE COMFORTABLE INSIDE YOUR BAG. A LOCKING BINER COULD BE ADDED OBVIOUSLY IF IT WAS FELT A RELEASABLE VERSION WAS NEEDED.
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THROWN AGAINST THE ACTUALITY OF FALLING DURING THE NIGHT THIS METHOD LOADS DIRECTLY ONTO THE CINCHED KNOT WHICH SPREADS THE LOAD ACROSS PART OF THE BAG. CONSIDER THAT WHEN ROPING IN, POSITIONING WHERE THE CONNECTION NEEDS TO BE AND HOW YOU END UP IF THINGS GO THAT WAY. IN THIS SCENARIO YOU WILL PROBABLY WANT TO BE ABLE TO ESCAPE THE BAG WHILST REMAINING CLIPPED IN.