NOT ALL GEAR FOR HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING WORKS FOR THE TRIPS WE DO. THE NORTH RIDGE OF K2, REMOTE PEAKS IN XINJIANG & TIBET ASCENTS ARE MORE TECHNICAL AND HAVE MORE INVOLVED APPROACHES THAN MOST COMMONLY FOUND COMMERCIAL PEAKS, AND ARE INVOLVED ENOUGH UNDERTAKINGS SO THAT GEAR CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE. IN THE PAST WE HAVE SEEN WELL EQUIPPED CLIMBERS ROLL OUT GEAR THAT SERVED THEM WELL ON OTHER PEAKS, ONLY TO SEE IT NOT BE UP TO THE TASK ON SOMETHING NEW.
BEFORE YOU GIVE THAT DOWN SUIT JUST ONE MORE OUTING, OR BEFORE YOU LAY DOWN REAL CASH FOR THAT SHINY NEW SET OF TOOLS, CHECK OFF THESE POINTS FIRST. A FAILING HERE OR THERE IS PROBABLY ACCEPTABLE, BUT IF YOU GET MORE THAN A FEW NEGATIVES IT COULD BE WORTH AN UPGRADE FOR MORE COMMITTING CLIMBING
DOWN SUITS
- CAN YOU EASILY GET TO THE GEAR ON THE FRONT & BACK OF YOUR HARNESS?
- CAN YOU SEE YOUR FEET?
- CAN YOU EASILY VENT HEAT FROM THE CHEST, PITS & LEGS?
- CAN YOU EASILY USE THE ZIPS?
- DO THE CHEST POCKET STAY CLOSED?
- CAN YOU REALLY USE THE TOILET?
- DOES IT REALLY FIT WELL ENOUGH?
- DO YOU STILL NEED TO CARRY ANOTHER BIG JACKET?
.
BOOTS
- ARE THEY EASY TO PUT ON BY TOUCH?
- ARE THEY PRECISE ENOUGH TO CLIMB ROCK IN?
- DO THE INNERS DRY FAST?
- CAN YOU WALK ABOUT IN THE INNERS?
.
BASE LAYERS
- DO THEY RETAIN THEIR SHAPE AFTER A FEW DAYS OF WEAR?
- DO THEY VENT FOR WHEN IT’S HOT?
- IS THERE A HOOD WITH GOOD FACE COVERAGE?
- DO THEY STRETCH ENOUGH TO PULL DOWN FOR THE TOILETS?
- DO THEY DRY FAST ENOUGH?
.
MID-LAYERS
- DOES IT FIT UNDER YOUR OTHER LAYERS?
- DOES IT MOVE WITH YOUR OTHER LAYERS?
- DOES IT DRY FAST?
- DOES IT HAVE POCKETS FOR BATTERIES?
- DOES IT HAVE A HOOD WITH GOOD FACE COVERAGE?
- DOES IT EXTEND BELOW YOUR HARNESS BELT?
- IS IT COMFORTABLE TO SLEEP IN?
.
SHELL LAYER
- IS IT TOUGH ENOUGH TO HANDLE CLIMBING ON ROCK?
- IS IT CUT TO FIT OVER A DECENT MID-LAYER?
- DOES THE HOOD REALLY GO OVER YOUR HELMET?
- DOES IT COVER ENOUGH OF YOUR FACE?
- ARE THE ZIPS EASY TO USE?
- DOES IT STASH AWAY SMALL ENOUGH, LIKE INTO THE LID OF YOUR PACK?
- IS IT A COLOUR THAT YOUR PARTNER CAN SEE IN GRIM CONDITIONS?
.
TENTS
- ARE THEY SELF STANDING?
- DO THEY PITCH FAST?
- DOES IT HANDLE WINDS EXCEEDING 100kmph?
- CAN IT BE PITCHED IN HIGH WIND?
- DOES IT VENT ENOUGH TO COOK INSIDE OF?
- IS IT LIGHT ENOUGH TO CARRY TO WHERE IT’S NEEDED?
- DOES IT HANDLE A LOT OF SNOW?
.
SLEEPING BAG
- IS THERE ROOM FOR YOU TO WEAR A DOWN SUIT INSIDE?
- CAN YOU ALSO FIT IN GLOVES, GAS CANISTERS, INNER BOOTS ETC?
- IS IT LONG ENOUGH TO SIT UP IN?
- DOES THE HOOD COVER YOUR FACE OK?
- IS THE ZIP ON THE SIDE WHERE YOU WANT IT?
- CAN IT COPE WITH SOME MOISTURE?
- DOES IT STASH SMALL ENOUGH TO CLIMB WITH (+/-20% OF YOUR PACK VOLUME)?
.
ALL TOGETHER
- DOES IT ALL FIT EASILY INTO AN 80L PACK?
- CAN YOU FIT 2 CLIMBERS, IN SUITS, PLUS THE REST, INTO THE SMALL TENT?
- CAN YOU CLIMB & MOVE EASILY WITH THE WHOLE LOT ON TOGETHER?
- IS THERE ANY ONE WEAKNESS IN THE ENSEMBLE?
