THE LAST FEW YEARS HAS SEEN AN EXPLOSION IN INTEREST IN ALPINE CLIMBING. SOCIETAL CHANGE HAS SEEN A RAPID INFLUX OF PEOPLE WANTING TO CLIMB ICE & COLD MOUNTAINS, SO THE INDUSTRY THAT PROVIDES TO THAT HAS GONE INTO OVERDRIVE TO DO SO.
DESPITE ALL THE GLITCHES THE FUTURE IS GEARING UP TO FURTHER ESCALATE THIS TREND; MORE PEOPLE WHO HAVE JUST RECENTLY TURNED ONTO THE IDEA ARE SIGNING UP TO GO CLIMBING. WHERE ONCE OUR CLIMBER-BASE WAS ALMOST TOTALLY ESTABLISHED CLIMBERS, EVERY YEAR NOW THIS SHIFTS CLOSER TO A BALANCED MIX WITH THOSE NEW TO THE PURSUIT AND THIS LEADS TO SOME CONFUSION. AFTER YEARS OF INTERACTING WITH PEOPLE WELL VERSED IN THE WAYS OF WINTER & EXPEDITION CLIMBING – YEARS THAT EARNED US A CERTAIN REPUTATION – WE FIND WE ARE NOW HAVING TO ADAPT THAT IN SOME ASPECTS TO THE ‘UNINITIATED’.
PEOPLE NOW GET THEIR IDEAS ABOUT CLIMBING FROM DIFFERENT SOURCES THAN A DECADE AGO. WHERE ONCE INFORMATION CAME THRU A WELL FILTERED PROCESS OF FULL-TIME CLIMBERS, OFTEN ON THE PLATFORM OF PEDIGREE GEAR COMPANIES, THRU THE LENS OF A SMALL, CONNECTED COMMUNITY THAT SELF-REGULATED ITS RESPONSE USUALLY WITH VERY LITTLE CONCERN FOR MONETIZING THE PROCESS, CLIMBING INFORMATION NOW COMES USUALLY THIRD HAND IN THE FORM OF COMMENTS AND SELF-ENTITLED OPINIONEERING BASED ON A SEVERELY EDITED PERSPECTIVE ON WHAT THE SPORT ENTAILS. WHICH IS A NICE WAY OF SAYING MANY PEOPLE NOW DONT HAVE THE REQUIRED EXPERIENCE TO POSIT WHAT THEY THINK THEYRE TALKING ABOUT.
THE POINT WHERE THIS PLAYS OUT MOST ABRASIVELY IS THE CONFUSION BETWEEN COMMERCIAL AND PERSONAL CLIMBING.
COMMERCIAL CLIMBING IS ANY TIME YOU PAY MONEY FOR SOMEONE ELSE TO DO THE THINGS YOU EITHER CANT, WONT, OR DONT WANT TO. LIKE ANY TRANSACTION, YOUR MONEY PAYS FOR THE TIME, RESOURCES, EXPERTISE, MANDATORY ELEMENTS & MOTIVATION OF THE PERSON OR BUSINESS YOU GIVE IT TO. IN A FREE MARKET WORLD, THESE THINGS EQUATE TO THE VALUE OF WHAT YOU WANT. AFTER DECADES OF EVOLUTION THE COMMERCIAL CLIMBING WORLD HAS A GOOD IDEA OF WHAT THINGS COST AND HOW MUCH TO CHARGE FOR THEM. EFFORTS HAVE BEEN MADE TO UPHOLD FAIR AND REASONABLE STANDARDS, JUST LIKE MANY INDUSTRIES HAVE (WHICH OF COURSE HAS ITS WEAK LINKS IN PLACES), AND THE UNIQUE RISK PROFILE OF THE PURSUIT MEANS A HIGH DEGREE OF SELF-REGULATION IS BUILT IN AS ACCIDENTS ARE NO GOOD FOR ANYONE.
INDEPENDENT CLIMBING, IN CONTRAST, IS ANY TIME YOU AND/OR PEOPLE YOU KNOW PROVIDE ALL THE TIME, RESOURCES, EXPERTISE, MANDATORY ELEMENTS & MOTIVATION YOURSELVES. YOU DRIVE THE VEHICLES, DEAL WITH ANY BUREAUCRACY, MAKE THE PLAN BASED ON YOUR OWN DEGREE OF EXPERTISE, TAKE YOUR OWN RISKS AND OVERSEE YOUR OWN PROCESSES.
THE EXAMPLE HERE IS A BUNCH OF FRIENDS GOING SOMEWHERE REASONABLY ACCESSIBLE FOR A COMMON OBJECTIVE REQUIRING SIMPLE BUREAUCRACY. YOU DONT NEED A COMPANY TO LIAISE WITH OFFICIALS, THE LANGUAGE IS SORTED, PERMITS ARE SIMPLE, THE LOCATION IS OPEN AND ACCESSIBLE. OF COURSE THERE ARE COSTS – BUT THEYRE BASIC AND REQUIRE LITTLE LEAD TIME.
OFTEN THE EXAMPLE OF A COMMERCIAL CLIMBING TRIP IS THE EVEREST OR 7 SUMMITS MODEL. HERE THE TRIP EXISTS AND THE CONSUMER NEED ONLY BUY A PLACE IN IT, NOT MUCH DIFFERENT TO A CRUISE OR CLUB MED. THESE TRIPS ARE INDUSTRIAL IN THE FULL SENSE OF THE WORD; INDUSTRIAL QUANTITIES OF GOODS AND SERVICES, INDUSTRIAL ORGANIZATION TO MOVE THINGS AROUND, INDUSTRIAL ECONOMICS ACROSS SECTORS AND ORGANIZATIONS AND IN SOME CASES, INDUSTRIAL IMPACTS ON THE PLACES THEY HAPPEN IN. THESE TYPE OF TRIPS WORK TO A SET METHODOLOGY, SET DATES, SET SCHEDULES AND SET COSTS. IN SOME CASES A FORM OF COMMERCIAL EXTORTION IS USED, RAIL-ROADING CLIMBERS INTO EXPENSIVE OPTIONS, AND OTHER TIMES ITS PURE RACKETEERING WHERE A CLIQUE OF CONTROLLING COMPANIES FIX PROFITS AND STAMP OUT ANY INDEPENDENT OPTION.
TRIPS LIKE THIS GIVE COMMERCIAL CLIMBING TRIPS A BAD NAME, BUT IT MUST BE REMEMBERED THAT COMMERCIAL DOESNT HAVE TO MEAN INDUSTRIAL AND IN ALPINE CLIMBING SOME THINGS SIMPLY CANT BE DONE IN ANY WAY OTHER THAN COMMERCIALLY, IN WHICH CASE THE QUASI MIDDLE GROUND EXISTS WHERE A COMMERCIAL BUSINESS PROVIDES THE MINIMUM SERVICES THE INDIVIDUAL CLIMBER CANT BECAUSE THE AUTHORITIES DEMAND A BUSINESS INTERFACE. 99% OF THE TIME THAT COVERS THE REDTAPE AND THE TRANSPORT AND COULD BE CALLED THE ‘SMALL FOOTPRINT COMMERCIAL’ MODEL
IN GENERAL THE MORE EXOTIC A PLAN IS, THE MORE ADMINISTRATION IS INVOLVED TO MAKE IT HAPPEN AS PLACES STILL OBSCURE IN THIS DAY AND AGE ARE SO FOR A REASON. IN THE CONTEXT OF FEEDING THE RAT EXPEDITIONS, THE VERY REASON FOR EXISTING IS TO BRING SMALL-FOOTPRINT COMMERCIAL LOGISTICS TO OBJECTIVES OTHERWISE INACCESSIBLE DUE TO REMOTENESS, INSTABILITY, LACK OF RECOGNITION OR COMPLEXITY.
WHERE SMALL FOOTPRINT COMMERCIAL CLIMBING WORKS BEST IS WHEN IT OPENS UP POSSIBILITIES NOT EXISTING TO INDEPENDENT CLIMBERS. THE GOOD SIDE OF COMMERCIAL CLIMBING IS THE WAY IT CAN HARNESS THE DEPTH AND PEDIGREE OF A COMPANYS SERVICES UNAVAILABLE TO AN INDEPENDENT CLIMBER; REGIONAL EXPERTISE, INDUSTRY CONNECTIONS, STREAMLINED LOGISTICS, UNOBTRUSIVE BUREAUCRACY AND MITIGATED RISKS. YES, YOU CAN ROLL THE DICE GETTING A TAXI OUT TO KAIKOMAGATAKE OR HITCHING TO GANZI (AND IN THE PAST THATS HOW THESE THINGS WERE DONE), BUT THE TIME AND ENERGY INVESTED MAY NOT MATCH UP TO THE RESULTS.
THIS IS THE MODEL USED ON MOST OF THE CLIMBING WORLDS CUTTING EDGE TRIPS, AND HAS BEEN FOR OVER A CENTURY.
RISKS & ETHICS
PERHAPS THE BIGGEST CONFUSION BETWEEN INDEPENDENT AND COMMERCIAL CLIMBING TRIPS IS WHEN IT COMES TO RISKS AND ETHICS. COMMERCIAL ORGANIZATION IMPLIES THINGS ARE DONE SAFELY AND PROPERLY WITHIN STANDARDS ACCEPTED BY THE CLIMBING COMMUNITY, OR ABOVE.
ENDLESS STORIES CIRCULATE OF BAD RISKS TAKEN AND BAD ETHICS APPLIED, MANY WITH A DEGREE OF BADNESS THAT HAS TAINTED THE WHOLE SPORT ACROSS AVENUES RANGING FROM INSURANCE TO CULTURALLY, PERSONAL INTEGRITY TO POLITICALLY. FOR EVERY TALE OF ACHIEVEMENT AND EXPLORATION THERES ONE OF EXPLOITATION, SELFISHNESS AND COWARDICE AND IT SEEMS THE FURTHER ONE GOES TO THE OUTSIDES OF THE SPECTRUM OF COMMERCIALISM THE WORSE THINGS GET, AS SOME BIG COMPANIES EXPLOIT LOCALS AND SOME UNKNOWING INDEPENDENT CLIMBERS UNDERMINE ALREADY-FRAGILE LOCAL RELATIONS.
SMALL FOOTPRINT COMMERCIAL TRIPS, IN ORDER TO KEEP COSTS PROPORTIONATE, WORK AT LOCAL LEVELS; LOCAL ACCOMMODATION, LOCAL RESTAURANTS, LOCAL CONNECTIONS FOR INFORMATION, LOCAL LANGUAGES, LOCAL RESOURCES – THINGS THAT AUTOMATICALLY HAVE POSITIVE ETHICS AND MANAGE RISKS IN VERY SIGNIFICANT WAYS; FOOD COOKED IN SMALL QUANTITIES IS SAFER, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE OF ROADS SAVES TIME, SMALL HOTELS EMPLOY PEOPLE FROM THE AREA AND SMALL FOOTPRINT TEAMS ATTRACT LESS OF THE ATTENTION THAT CAN ENTAIL PROBLEMS. WEIGHED UP AGAINST THE COSTS OF A TRIP, THESE THINGS ALL GREATLY AFFECT THE TIMELINE THAT BUILDS UP TOWARDS THE SHARP END OF CLIMBING A REMOTE PEAK. THE LESS ENERGY SPENT GETTING THERE, THE MORE CAN BE USED WHEN IT MATTERS.
WHAT TO EXPECT
COMMERCIALLY PROVIDING LOGISTICS, LIAISONS & EXPERTISE IS A JOB LIKE ANY OTHER, SO PAYING FOR IT MEANS YOU CAN EXPECT A FAIR RETURN TO THE VALUE. EXPECT THE APPLICATION OF INDUSTRY STANDARDS ON THINGS LIKE QUALIFICATIONS, WAGES & SAFETY. EXPECT COMMITMENT TO THE PLAN AGREED ON AND PAID FOR. EXPECT JOB FOCUS PROPORTIONATE TO THE COMPLEXITY AND RISKS. EXPECT EXCLUSIVITY THAT YOUR TRIP IS UNIQUE TO YOU AND YOUR OBJECTIVES. EXPECT COSTS TO REFLECT THE DIFFICULTY AND DEMAND OF THE OBJECTIVE. EXPECT TO INTERACT AT THE LEVEL OF YOUR COMPETENCE. EXPECT TO GET FROM A TRIP IN PROPORTION TO WHAT YOU PUT INTO IT. EXPECT SOME DECISIONS TO BE MADE UNDER COMMERCIAL OVERSIGHT. EXPECT THE COMPANY TO BEHAVE LIKE ONE, NOT LIKE A BUNCH OF BUDDIES. EXPECT CREW AND LOCALS TO HAVE LIVES OUTSIDE OF THE JOB YOU SEE THEM DOING.
WHAT NOT TO EXPECT
SIGNING UP FOR A DEGREE OF COMMERCIAL LOGISTICS DOESNT MAKE YOU AN EVEREST HUFFER, BUT IT DOESNT MAKE YOU Dr LIVINGSTONE EITHER. DONT EXPECT THE LOGISTICS PROVIDERS TO ACCEPT HAZARDS AND RISKS YOU AND YOUR BUDDIES MIGHT. DONT EXPECT LOCAL PROVIDERS TO BREAK OR SUBVERT LAWS AND RULES. DONT EXPECT TO BE BEYOND THE RULES BECAUSE YOUVE PAID FOR THE PAPERWORK. DONT EXPECT TO TREAT LOCALS LIKE EMPLOYEES, BECAUSE YOU DONT EMPLOY THEM, THE COMPANY DOES. DONT EXPECT TO NAME A PEAK AFTER YOURSELF OR CLAIM A SUMMIT WITHOUT ACKNOWLEDGING THE TEAMWORK AND BACK-END THAT GOT YOU THERE. DONT EXPECT THE FRUITS OF YEARS OF BUSINESS EXPERIENCE TO BE GIVEN OUT FOR NOTHING. DONT EXPECT CHANGES TO TIMELINES AND SCHEDULES TO COST NOTHING. DONT EXPECT THAT HAVING PAID FOR SOMETHING AS COMPLEX AND CHANGEABLE AS ALPINE CLIMBING FOR IT TO HAVE A SIMPLE AND UNCHANGING OUTCOME.
WHERE FEEDING THE RAT EXPEDITIONS FITS IN
ALL THIS COMES BACK TO WHERE FTRE FITS INTO THE WORLD OF ALPINE CLIMBING. AFTER 25 YEARS OF ENGAGING IN ALL FORMS OF EXPEDITION CLIMBING – BIG INDUSTRIAL TRIPS, INDEPENDENT & PIRATE TRIPS AND COMMERCIALLY ARRANGED INDEPENDENT TRIPS – WE EXPLICITLY FALL INTO THE THIRD TYPE. EVEN WHEN WE DO OUR OWN PERSONAL TRIPS USING OTHER COMPANIES, THE STYLE LAID OUT ABOVE IS WHAT WE CHOOSE FOR OURSELVES.
ITS WORTH REALIZING THAT OFTEN-TIMES COMMERCIAL CLIMBING TRIPS ARE CHEAPER THAN GOING IT ALONE; a) BECAUSE ITS NOT AS EXPENSIVE AS YOU MIGHT IMAGINE, AND b) BECAUSE IT ALLOWS STREAMLINED TIMELINES THAT MATCH VALUE TO COST. ESPECIALLY ANYTHING INVOLVING ALTITUDE (4000m AND ABOVE) AND COLD (NORTHERN HEMISPHERE OCTOBER TO APRIL), COMMERCIAL ORGANIZATION SECURES THE LOGISTICS THAT MAKE OR BREAK A TRIP. THE BUS FROM URUMQI, KOHIMA OR TEHRAN MAY COST HALF THAT OF A 4WD – BUT IT DUMPS YOU BY THE ROADSIDE AT 3am WITH A PILE OF GEAR AND NOT MUCH BARGAINING POWER ON ANY AVAILABLE ROOMS. FUN WHEN YOURE 21 WITH NOWHERE TO BE, NOT SO MUCH WHEN YOU WANT TO PREPARE FOR A SUMMIT AT 6000m. ITS ALSO NICE TO HAVE THE RIGHT PAPERWORK WHEN PLAN B MEANS A 2 DAY TRIP BACK TO THE NEAREST GOVERNMENT OFFICE THAT SHOULD BE SPENT ACCLIMATING.
SO…
THE CLIMBING WORLD IS CHANGING IN LOTS OF WAYS AND IN THE EXPEDITION WORLD THIS IS BEING FELT BY MORE PEOPLE GOING TO MORE PLACES THAT BEFORE SAW FEW OUTSIDERS. PREVIOUS EVOLUTIONS SAW THE RISE OF SAFARI-STYLE COMMERCIALISM FILL THE COMMERCIAL SPACE, AS ACCESS BIT BY BIT SCREWED DOWN IN PLACES LIKE CHINA AND CENTRAL ASIA. THE FLIP SIDE OF THIS IS THE LOCALS IN MOUNTAINOUS AREAS WANTING A FAIR SLICE OF THE ECONOMIC GAIN. THERE WILL ALWAYS BE A PLACE FOR PIRATE ASCENTS AND EVEREST/DENALI TYPE TRIPS, BUT AS PEOPLE SWITCH ON TO MANAGING THEIR IMPACT ON THE CULTURES AND ENVIRONMENTS WHERE UNCLIMBED PEAKS ARE THE SPACE NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED ETHICALLY AND SAFELY TO AVOID THE PROBLEMS OF THE PAST.
